Canal Boat Tours and other Amsterdam, Netherlands Things to Do Tips

We took one of the canal boat tours of the city. I can't remember which one, but it was one of the companies located right in front of the Centraal Station. We chose that one because we picked up a discount coupon for it at our hotel.

It was a "guided tour" not in the sense of having a living breathing guide, but in the sense that everyone was provided with headsets and you were allowed to listen to pre-recorded commentary in the language of your choice. Sensible and practical!

The canal boats were efficient and smoothly operated, and certainly that provide a perspective (from the water!) that most visitors to Amsterdam can't obtain in any other way. The canal tours may be a little of a tourist cliche here, but I do think they are worthwhile!

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One of the great museums of the world.

When I visited Amsterdam in March 2008, much of the Rijksmuseum was closed for renovation. (My bad luck in the timing: the nearby Stedelijk Museum was also being restored at the same time, its permanent collection in storage.) At the Rijksmuseum, the highlights of the collection were being shown in a few large galleries. "The Masterpieces" - meaning that nearly every single object on display was worthy of intense concentration and study. Ah yes, the "masterpieces of the Rijksmuseum" are worthy indeed!

This is a Dutch museum, of course, but I think there's something for everyone here. While I was obsessing over the Vermeers and the Rembrandts, my friend Nikke was drooling over the large dollhouses and the collection of gold and silver plate. I can't wait to return for my second go-through - and perhaps at that time the whole museum will be open!

N.B., the building which houses the Rijksmuseum is in the Dutch neo-gothic style and designed by the same architect, P.J. Cuypers (1827-1921).

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Phone: +31-20-6747047
Address: Stadhouderskade 42
Directions: Museumplein
Website: http://www.rijksmuseum.nl

More Van Goghs than you can shake a stick at!

However. The museum is made up primarily of the collection that remained with the Van Gogh family. In other words, it consists of the works that DID NOT SELL in the decades after Vincent's death. For me, this signifies that "the cream of the crop" is elsewhere, so to speak. And I think in a general sense that's true. Most of the truly iconic Van Goghs are elsewhere. (the MOMA in New York, for instance.) Don't let that stop you from coming here. But don't come thinking that you are going to get to see all the best of Vincent under one roof. It ain't necessarily so.

That said, this is a very fine museum indeed. Not surprisingly, there is an excellent museum shop (cash cow) and a good cafe/restaurant. The original building, by the Dutch architect Gerrit Rietveld (1888-1964), is considered to be a fine example of austere modernism, while the addition by Japanese designer Kisho Kurokawa is (in my opinion) a better and more interesting construction. When I was in Amsterdam, the addition was host to a fascinating travelling exhibit of the work of the English pre-Raphaelite master Sir John Millais. I would have gladly paid the price of admission just to see the Millais exhibit!!

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Phone: +31-20-5705252
Address: Paulus Potterstraat 7
Website: http://www.vangoghmuseum.nl

It's nice to be able to see where the Great Master lived when things were going well for him! But there's a story behind the bourgeois facade of prosperity.

Interesting that Rembrandt did well in the great Dutch city of Amsterdam - and for a while he was "painter of the day" - in demand for big civic commissions (i.e. working on the new Town Hall) and society portraits of the rich and famous. But Rembrandt never forgot that he was Rembrandt, and by many accounts he was somewhat difficult to get along with. He also spent money freely on his house and his furniture and his servants, and eventually his finances got out of control. The big commissions began to dry up, some of his wealthy patrons began to turn against, and in general, Amsterdammers began to turn their attention (and their pocketbooks) to the new and younger generation of painters. Fashions turn.

Eventually Rembrandt and family faced the public humiliation of bankruptcy. The tut-tutting must have been impossible to avoid. This large and confortable house had to be given up. And Rembrandt's furniture and possessions were sold at public auction. As is well known, Rembrandt died impoverished, and was buried at public expense in an unmarked grave. C'est la vie.

It's good preparation for a trip to Amsterdam to read a good biography of Rembrandt - and his times. I can recommend the work of Simon Schama, particularly "Rembrandt's Eyes." (There's also some interesting bits about Rembrandt in Zadie Smith's recent novel "On Beauty" - but that's more of a London novel than an Amsterdam novel!)

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Phone: +31-205200400
Address: Jodenbreestraat 4
Website: http://www.rembrandthuis.nl

Amsterdam's "MOMA" - its Museum of modern and contemporary art - is temporarily located (at least until 2010) in the "POST CS" building - an old office and warehouse center for the post office. Lots of interesting temporary exhibits are being staged here while large-scale renovations are being made to the permanent building located close to the Rijksmuseum on Museumplein.

The Post CS building was designed by a famous modernist, Piet Elling, and is considered to be a classic of its type. My friend and I didn't have a chance to go to the Stedelijk, even though there was an interesting exhibit of modern news photography that I would have liked to see. However, we did pay a visit to the club on the 11th floor - quite nice!

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Phone: +31-20-5732737
Address: Paulus Potterstraat 13
Website: http://www.stedelijk.nl

The Jewish Historical Museum, located in the old Jewish quarter, incorporates several older buildings - and the interior of an old synagogue. It offers an interesting perspective upon eight centuries of Jewish life in Amsterdam, from times of persecution and refuge in the medieval era, to times of persecution and refuge in the modern era. There are both permanent exhibits and space for temporary or travelling shows, so the displays here are constantly being revised and updated. Very interesting to see the challenges and triumphs and tragedies of the Jewish community here - it should be seen by everyone who visits the Anne Frank house!

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Phone: +31-20-6269945
Address: Jonas Daniel Meijerplein 2-4
Website: http://www.jhm.nl

Interesting for local history! I'm a history buff (and a historian) so of course it was natural for me to pay a visit to this excellent regional museum. Amsterdam is a city with a great and important past, and the local museum portrays its diverse and rich past in an interactive and convincing manner. I especially liked the profusion of maps and dioramas that portrayed the relationship of the city to its environment, both physical and human, over the centuries. It really becomes clear how "clever" the Dutch have been (and Amsterdammers in particular) at making the best of their situation!

Coming the museum here also helped me to understand the peculiar relationship of Amsterdam to the rest of the Netherlands. Amsterdam is the largest and most important city, but it's not the government center - and it's also far from being a Royal city in the manner of a London or a Copenhagen. Amsterdammers have always been proud and bourgeous - rich through trade and commerce - and always have something of a difficult relationship with the rest of the country. And something of a difficult relationship with the Dutch monarchy, too!

One of my favorite exhibits though focused upon the development of the monarchy in the 19th and 20th centuries. The monarchy probably would not have survived had it not been for the resourcefulness and ingenuity of its long period of Queens: Wilhelmina, Juliana and now Beatrix. So interesting to see how Queens Day is celebrated here - even (or especially) in the gay clubs of the Rokin!

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Phone: +31-20-5231822
Address: Kalverstraat 92
Website: http://www.ahm.nl

A sign of Amsterdam's unusual and early spirit of tolerance in its Golden Age, the Portuguese Synagogue survived the Nazi occupation and remains today a link to a vital period of Jewish and Dutch history.

When this temple was opened in 1675, it was said to be the largest synagogue in western Europe. Both inside and out, classical, refined architectural details suggest a melding of faith and reason: this building is a product both of the continuity of Judaism and the flourishing of a rational spirit in the 17th century. Definitely a must-see for all those interested in Judaica and/or architectural history.

(Note that this is a still a functioning religious center, so it is closed on Saturdays and holy days.)

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Address: Mr Visserplein 3

Interesting canal-side house museum that allows visitors to see the lifestyle enjoyed by the high bourgeoisie of Amsterdam from the 17th to the 19th centuries.

The house was constructed between 1685 and 1690; it is the only canal house museum in Amsterdam that dates from that era. (The last private owners of the house, the Willet-Holthuysen family, donated the property to the Amsterdam Historical Society in the late 19th century.)

Plenty of objet's arts: silver, china, paintings: a haven for those interested in historic interior design. Not palatial but certainly well beyond comfortable!

We really liked the clothing exhibit on the top floor of the house. They had a few original pieces, and quite a few large panels that were "blown up" from early 19th century fashion books.

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Phone: (020) 523-1822
Address: Herengracht 605
Directions: close to the Amstel River, half a block from Utrechtestraat
Website: www.willetholthuysen.nl

18th century house museum located on one of the grandest canals in the Golden belt. Several grand state rooms, and bedrooms that reflect the prosperity of the upper bourgeoisie. Lots of gilt!

Interesting to see how nice the back of the house is - in many ways, more grand than the front. Spectacular garden - that was my favorite feature. I love a good parterre!

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Address: Keisersgracht 672
Website: http://www.museumvanloon.nl