St. Paul's Cathedral - Wren's Gift to London and other London, United Kingdom Things to Do Tips

Christopher Wren made his greatest contribution to architecture (and history) with his great design for St. Paul's cathedral, which magnificently brings together the mastery of engineering and faith in divine providence. It was commissioned to replace the old Gothic St. Paul's, which was destroyed (with so much else) in the Great Fire of 1666.

In the summer 2009, I had the great good fortune of attending an evening concert in St. Paul's by the medieval a capella vocal group the Hilliard Ensemble. They performed with the contemporary Norwegian saxophone player Jan Gabarek. The musician's tones blended magnificently in the amazing acoustic of St. Paul's. It was an evening to be remembered, in a space that is truly unique.

I always tell people that first time visitors to London should start at St. Paul's Cathedral. Be sure to climb to the top of Christopher Wren's magnificent dome and take in the panorama of London's skyline. It's not exactly pretty, but it does give you a sense of the lay of the land better than any tourbus could do.

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Phone: 0 20 7236 4128
Address: St Pauls Churchyard, EC4
Directions: St Pauls tube
Website: http://www.stpauls.co.uk

The British Museum has one of the greatest collections of "old stuff" in the world. And Norman Foster's great glass-covered court, which is one of the most interesting spaces in London, or anywhere else for that matter.

This was one of the most successful of all the various "millennium projects" in Britain. It was a project that was undertaken in association with the move of the British Library from its long-standing home here in one wing of the museum to its new location by St. Pancras Station. Foster supervising re-organizing the established galleries, expanding into the space previously occupied by the Library, and covering the grand central courtyard with a brilliantly designed glass cover.

You can come to the BM every year on every visit to London, and never exhaust the riches of the permanent collection. Not to mention the special exhibits. Oh yes, and those famous ruins from Athens are still here.

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Phone: 0 20 7323 8299
Address: Great Russell Street, WC1
Directions: Holborn tube
Website: http://www.thebritishmuseum.ac.uk

Admittedly, I don't care for the architecture of the new British Library. When they moved from their historic (but overcrowded) facilities in the British Museum, I think they squandered an opportunity to create a structure that would truly celebrate the great British literary tradition; instead, they ended up with something that looks like a shoe factory, IMHO!

But they still have the great books and great exhibits that make the British Library one of my favorite places to visit in London. I love looking at the old - and very old - books and manuscripts - the charters of liberties from the Middle Ages, the first printed Bibles, the early editions of Shakespeare or the Bronte Sisters.

In the summer of 2009, there was a great exhibit marking the 500th anniversary of the coronation of King Henry VIII. It was a ticketed exhibition, but there were also plenty of free events taking place over the weeks and months of the summer. When I was there on one afternoon in June, for instance, there was a live concert of Renaissance music in the central lobby.

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Address: 96 Euston Rd.
Directions: Convenient for Kings Cross and Euston tube stations, St. Pancras International Rail Station, and many bus routes
Website: http://www.bl.uk/

The Tate Modern represents London's entry in the "Creative Re-Use of Industrial Architecture" sweepstakes. Before's its recent resurrection as London's major mecca for twentieth century art, the Bankside Power Plant was widely regarded as an eyesore on the South Bank. Now it seems that it was meant to be an art gallery all along!

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Phone: 0 20 7887 8000
Address: Bankside, SE1
Directions: Southwark or Blackfriars tubes

The Royal Academy of Arts was founded by order of H.M. King George III (see, he wasn't completely evil) in 1768, with a two-fold purpose: first, to raise the prestige and statue of artists in Britain; and second, to create a space for the annual exhibit of contemporary art that meets the "high standards of excellence." It's first President was one of England's very greatest artists, Sir Joshua Reynolds.

Although the first location of the RA was a small house in Pall Mall, since 1868 it has been located in the fine Burlington House, just off Piccadilly. (Art is very fashionable here!) The Royal Academy took a 999 years lease of the mansion, at the quite reasonable rent of one pound a year.

Burlington House is interesting in itself as one of the last remaining 17th century mansions in central London. It was constructed in the Palladian style in the 17th and early 18th centuries.

The highlight of the summer art season is the annual Royal Academy Show. It really does give you a sense of what's going on in the art world in Britain! The RA also features special exhibitions; in the summer 2009 I attended a very interesting show about the late Victorian Artist John Waterhouse.

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Address: Piccadilly, next to Sackville Street
Directions: Green Park or Piccadilly Circus tube stations
Website: http://www.royalacademy.org.uk/

The Wallace Collection is an excellent art gallery housing the personal collections of Richard Seymour-Conway, the 4th Marquess of Hertford (1800-1870), and his "illegitimate" son, Sir Richard Wallace (1818-1890). Lady Wallace bequeathed their art collections to the public, with the stipulation that none of the pieces therein ever leave the building - so if you want to Hals "Laughing Cavalier" or the great Rubens "Rainbow Landscape," this is the only place where you would ever have the chance of seeing them.

Oddly enough, the Wallace Collection is a "little off the beaten tourist track," even though it is just a few minutes from bustling Oxford Street. AND, delightfully, admission to the Wallace is FREE. I always try to visit here on my trips to London - it's a very "civilized" place.

If you like the Frick Collection in New York, you'll enjoy the Wallace. I really appreciate this smaller museums that retain the shape and inspiration of the original collectors and patrons.

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Address: Manchester Square
Directions: closest tube: Oxford Circus
Website: http://www.wallacecollection.org/

I wouldn't call the Museum of London a "first-tier" attraction - in the category of St. Paul's or the National Gallery or Regent's Park. But any one who is a true fan of London will want to pay a visit to the Museum of London sooner rather than later. This is a very good museum of local and regional history, and also an institution that is currently (2009) undergoing a serious, prolonged re-creation of its major exhibits and displays. By the time that the work is completed late in 2009 there will be even more reasons to visit the Museum of London.

I was particularly impressed with the exhibit - including dioramas and and excellent short film - about the Great Fire of 1666. Also, if you are interested in the Roman heritage of London, there are a few exhibits of fascinating statuary and devotional objects found in various archeological digs in and around the Greater London area.

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Phone: +44 (0)870 444 3852
Address: London Wall
Website: http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/

Apsley House was the London residence of the first Duke of Wellington, one of Britain's greatest military heroes. (Wellington's brilliant career as commander of His Majesty's army in Europe was capped by his decisive victory at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815.)

This is a fine example of "Georgian" architecture. Originally constructed to a design by the great Robert Adam in the 1770s, it was modified and expanded by the classicism Benjamin Wyatt in 1818-1820.

Today the house is an English-Heritage property, with exhibits of some of the gifts of plate and armor that the Duke received in recognition of his service to Britain. Visitors climb the grand staircase to art galleries on the first (second) floor that showcase the Duke's magnifient collection of Old Master paintings.

The core of the art collection originally belonged to the Kings of Spain. But they were looted by the French, and fell into the possession of the usurper Joseph Bonaparte. Joseph was carry the paintings back to France when he and his fleeing army were routed at the Battle of Vittoria in late 1813. A grateful King of Spain demonstrated his appreciation of Wellington by making him a gift of the remarkable art collection.

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Address: Hyde Park Corner
Website: http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/server.php?show=nav.12679

St. Paul's Covent Garden - known as the Actors' Church. Originally designed by Inigo Jones for the thrifty 4th Earl of Bedford, who was developing the Covent Garden market on the grounds of his estate. Bedford wanted a church in the market center, but wanted a cheap one. He instructed Jones to design a church which would be "not much better than a barn." Later, Inigo Jones proudly claimed that he had designed "the handsomest barn in Europe."
It's under the portico of St. Paul's where Professor Henry Higgins meets Eliza Doolittle in the opening scene of George Bernard Shaw's "Pygmalion."

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Trafalgar Square is one of London's most famous places. It's where people gather for really big events - for example, New Years' celebrations or the end of reigns, or wars. It's reputed to be the fourth most popular "tourist attraction" in the world, attracting an estimated 15 million visitors annually. (There are no turnstiles, so estimates are approximate.)

Trafalgar Square was created in the 1820s, to commemorate Britain's great naval victory over the forces of Napoleon. Hence Admiral Nelson (who died at the battle) enjoys his perch atop the central column. It's hard to get a good photo of him, he's too far up!

Now that traffic has been removed from the perimeter of the Square, it's more attractive than ever.

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