| Page Views: 3,602 Last Visit to Sidi Bou Said: July, 2007 | Sidi Bou Said by starship - last update: May 10, 2008 |
After a long time spent in excited anticipation of visiting Tunisia, we arrived in La Goulette, by ship on a brilliantly sunny and steamy morning. Another smaller European cruise ship had preceded us into port and was docked behind us. The jumble of bright white buildings, a deep green park with palm trees and the remains of a walled fortress appeared outside our window.
This visit to Tunisia would be a visit that would highlight several "firsts" for me--- It would be the first time I would set foot on the continent of Africa; my first visit to an Arabic country; and, it would be the first time that I would experience such a distinctly different culture from any of my previous travels not to mention visit some of the most significant historical sites in the Mediterranean!!
Since the sights we wanted to see were not within walking distance of the ship, and we decided on a 4-hour ship excursion to Sidi Bou Said and Carthage. I originally wanted to take a much longer excursion, which included a trip to the Bardo Museum, a visit to the Medina and souk, and also lunch at a local restaurant. However, because everyone in my family does not enjoy museums, we compromised on the 4-hour trip although I was very disappointed that I did not get to see more during our 1 day in Tunisia. However, when traveling with family, compromise is the operative word. The important thing is that we came away with a lasting impression of Tunisia and Sidi Bou Said in particular. |
| A perfect location in Sidi Bou Said |
|  | Seaside Beauty and Exotic Atmosphere Sidi Bou Said is a feast for the eyes--- the startling deep blue of the Bay of Tunis is replicated in the deep Cerulean blue painted accents on whitewashed buildings. Everywhere there are deep pink Bourgainvillas tumbling over garden walls, lacey ironwork covered windows, cobblestone streets worn smooth over time and the exotic script of Arabic writing. Little shops full of colorful Tunisian pottery, clothing, birdcages, mosaics and artwork caught the eye at every turn. The attraction of Sidi Bou Said is in its beauty, its perfect location overlooking the Gulf of Tunis and the friendliness and politeness of its people which is a blessing to all who visit there.
Sidi Bou Said also enjoys the advantage of its proximity to Carthage, one of the major historical areas in this northern part of Tunisia. It was also the birth place of the "patron saint" of Sidi Bou Said whose name was Abou Said ibn Khalif ibn Yaia Ettamini el Beji. We saw his tomb on one of the main streets in the old part of Sidi Bou Said.
Moment in the Day of .......
As the tourist buses arrive, men gather at their favorite tea shop mid-morning to engage in the age old custom of sipping mint tea, indulging in conversation with their friends, and gazing at the tourists. I wonder what their thoughts are as they see our group snapping photos and peeking into every nook and cranny of their village. Perhaps you want to stop and join them, but there is no time and the intrusion may be unwelcome. Certainly no women are seen enjoying the same past time. In fact, you realize that you see virtually no women at all on the streets of Sidi Bou Said. And then I wonder why, as we have been told by our guide that in Tunisia women have the same rights as men. Ah then, but it is obvious that custom plays a more influential role in the lives of the people than what is written in law.
I used the little free time we had here to barter for several pieces of colorful, handmade Tunisian pottery and even postcards. I found shop owners to be courteous and polite. If your offer is too low, one might say, "Could you make your offer a little more agreeable, please." I am impressed. My son later tells me that one shop owner compliments or jokes by saying, "Your Mother's French is very good." It is not true, of course, but again for some reason I am impressed. Good actor or good business man?
Surprisingly and unexpectedly I find myself dreaming of returning to Tunisia to see so much more and observe the people and their customs!! |
| My absolute favorite postcard! |
| | A Brief Look at Tunisian History The history of Tunisia is like that of many countries. It endured an ever changing parade of invaders who left their mark on Tunisia in one way or another. The nearby city of Carthage was founded by the Phoenicians, but it was the Romans who colonized most of Tunisia and left the most enduring mark of their existence in northern Tunisia particularly in the towns of Carthage, Dougga and Sbeitla. They were followed by the Vandals of Spain who ruled until Arabs arrived around the time of AD670 and whose influence spread in a wide arc across North Africa. It was the Ottoman Turks next followed by the French in the later part of the 19th century who left their language as a stark reminder of their long rule there. Many people still speak French along with English and native languages.
Habib Ben Ali Bourguiba
Born in Monastir in 1903, Habib Bourguiba became the first President of Tunisia in March, 1956. Bourguiba, was a highly educated man who studied law and political science in Paris. He became a leader in the struggle for independence from France and the sovereignty of Tunisia. He was proclaimed President for life on the same day independence was claimed for Tunisia in 1956.
President Bourguiba is often compared to Turkey's Mustafa Kemal Ataturk. Both were forward thinking me. Bourguiba, who was pro-Western, made education and womens' rights high priorities. He prohibited polygamy, legalized divorce, and raised the minimum age at which girls could marry to age 17. These changes in womens' rights were extremely advanced in the Arab and Islamic world. Bourguiba was President until 1987 when he was "impeached" by his successor supposedly for old age & ill health. Subsequently and inexplicably he was kept under house arrest for the rest of his life. Bourguiba died at the age of 96 in April of 2000 in the same town where he was born. Bourguiba was a Sunni Muslim. |
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| Pros: | "Feast for the Eyes, Beautiful Bay of Tunis, Proximity to Carthage, Tunisian Crafts" | | Cons: | "Instense sun! Heat!" | | In A Nutshell: | "I'm still dreaming about Tunisia!!" |
starship's Sidi Bou Said Travel Tips
| Overview | Things to Do
Tips: 6 - Photos: 17 | | | Restaurants
Tips: 2 - Photos: 2 | Hotels & Accommodations | | | | Nightlife | Off The Beaten Path
Tips: 3 - Photos: 15 | | | | Tourist Traps | Warnings Or Dangers | | | | Transportation | Local Customs | | | | Packing Lists | Shopping
Tips: 1 - Photos: 4 | | | | Sports Travel | General Tips |
 Comments for starship about Sidi Bou Said | | | | |
BruceDunning Sun Aug 16, 2009 21:05 UTC
It sounds like you engrossed into the culture and "dickered" for the best price. Good detail and pictures for this historical area. | NilePrincess Sun Aug 9, 2009 12:44 UTC
Wow, thank you so much for all the detail! Great page! | lynnehamman Tue May 12, 2009 14:09 UTC
What a wonderfully interesting page on Tunisia. Your tips on the history of Tomb of Patron Saint ~ Part I & 2 are of great interest.Explantions sound quite feasable. The Blue & White architecture is stunning. Thanks | Arkeolog Tue Apr 7, 2009 17:00 UTC
great page. your tips and photos bring my good memories back. all the best.Bora |
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