Amazing courtyards in the Palazzo Mattei di Giove and other Rome, Italy Off The Beaten Path Tips

The Palazzo Mattei di Giove is generally not on most people’s itineraries, but its courtyard is certainly worth a visit if you’re in the area. The Palazzo now houses the Italian Centre for American Studies and is hidden behind a very unassuming entrance. Step inside, though, and you’ll be overwhelmed by the splendour of its sculptures and bas-reliefs.

See my Travelogue for a few more examples.

You can find the Palazzo near the Jewish Quarter on the Via dei Funari, 3.

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During Goethe’s first stay in Rome from October 29, 1786 - February 21, 1787, he stayed in the Albergo dell’Orso at the corner of Via di Monte Brianzo and Via dell’Orso. Forget about Lonely Planet, Let’s Go or any of the other modern travel books. You’d still be hard pressed to find a better guide for Italy than Goethe’s own “Italian Journey”. His insights into Italian art and architecture are absolutely amazing and will make you feel very humble when you realise that – despite living in the “information” age – you will more likely than not not even get close to the deep wisdom and appreciation he managed to get out of his visit. We’re still cultural Barbarians in comparison to his genius.

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A steep hill behind Trastevere’s restaurant area leads up to a very green park area. The Piazza Garibaldi offers one of the best views all over Rome. You will get a great kick out of it, especially if you climb up at the end of your stay when you are already familiar with Rome’s layout and buildings and are able to recognise the most famous landmarks.

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Piazza Garibaldi’s statue celebrates Italy’s eponymous national hero. All around the Piazza you will also find other smaller statues celebrating lesser known statesmen and war figures of his time.

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Though Rome is usually not associated with beach holidays, it is well worth remembering that Ostia just outside the city does have some very nice clean beaches that are worth visiting for a day especially during the hot summer months.

In order to get there you will need to go Ostia Lido with the COTRAL rail train. The last three stops (Stella Polare, Castel Fusano and C. Colombo) all lead directly to the beach. You can get beach chairs against a small fee. The beaches are clean and very well kept and maintained.

Once on the way to Ostia Lido, you may also decide to pay the ruins at Ostia Antica a visit. Just remember that these are not accessible on Mondays and that you will need a good while to actually see them all, so your beach trip may be cut short. Just a question of getting your priorities right.

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