Tel Aviv-Yafo Things to Do Tips by leffe3

Like all major cities with a sizeable beach, the most dominant activity is centred around it. Tel Aviv is no exception. Undoubtedly the jewel in the crown, the sands of Tel Aviv sweep from the far north of the city (actually goes on further than the city 30kms to the north, broken only occasionally) to the edge of the rocky prominitory that is Yafo/Jaffa. Rocky wave breaks have been built some 50-100 metres out to sea to provide safer bathing areas - the result being that it has created 'separate' beaches, each with their own distinct character and 'beachbums'. From the north you find the religous beach, strangely located next to the gay beach (although the religious beach is walled off), the 'Florida-style' beach with sun loungers virtually on top of each other with loud music blasting out, the Marina that is the only part of Tel Aviv where the beach is no more, through to the long expanse of the city beach. No obvious distinction here, but there is! Groupings all along the 4-5 kms ranging from age to cultural backgrounds, families to young couples and friends. And as with all beaches, a real hive of activity. Watch out for the Mat kot players (a kind of Israeli beach table-tennis but without the table)- ALWAYS played at the edge of the water and the noise of ball on bat can be annoying....One cultural phenomenon that took me a while to get used to.

If you are early on the beach and find a quiet spot to yourself, don't count on being alone for long! No matter how quiet the beach is, there is a natural gravitas for people to gather in one spot. Beach-life is not restricted to when the sun is out - during the summer evenings you will see groups of people, young and old alike, picnicing, 'romancing' (!) - groups of young people frequently sleep over for the night around a small fire. And, with the beach facing west, there's more often than not a sunset of some description to witness!

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There are plenty of museums to visit during those rare rainy days in Tel Aviv. But my personal favourite is Bet Hatefutsoth (Diaspora Museum).

It is a musuem basically about the history of the Jewish people around the world. It is fascinating, full of photographs, reconstructions, videos and models of synagogues etc from around the world. It is also amazing how Judaeism spread - Europe, Americas, Africa, Asia. It is exactly what a museum should be - informative, but presented in such a way that is also fun.

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Address: University of Tel Aviv, Ramat Aviv

TAMA is one of 3 world class visual art museums in Israel (the Israel Museum and the Herzliya Museum of Art the others). It may not spring to mind in the same way that MOMA, the Tate, Louvre does, but TAMA has a few surprises up its sleeve when you wonder through its hallowed marbled interior.

A big, concrete bunker with many additions added to it over the years (founded in 1931), natural light and space abounds, hugely complementary to most works of art (although smaller rooms are available for more intimate exhibitions). The work is a real mix - and this is where the surprises are to be had - especially on the 1st floor: private collections have been donated to the Gallery. The history of modern art is to be found here - every conceivable artist (and a few inconceivable ones) to be found - 19th century Impressionists, 20th century Fauvists, Cubists, Expressionists etc are represented.

But they have enough space to present not only the permanent collection but also a number of interesting contemporary exhibitions. Generally, there is a focus on Israeli and Jewish work, but not exclusively. It's great to see such an important museum supporting living artists - in April 2007, I saw an exhibition of Rothko along with work by Israeli photographer Barry Frydlender, a 20 year retrospective of Israeli Nurit David, Ra'anan Levy, an Israeli living in France and, in the seperate Helena Rubenstein Pavillion, an amazing exhibition by Adi Nes. Contemporary Israeli art is internationally highly respected - Sigalit Landau, Adi Nes, Uri Gersht, Yehudit Sassportes are just a few names who have had major exhibitions at TAMA before moving on to the international arena with considerable acclaim.

In addition, the Museum hosts an arthouse cinema (approx 150 seats) and the 520 seat Racanti Hall and the 200 seat Kauffman-Gitter Auditorium, both of which present world class classical and jazz music.

Entrance Fee (Museum): NIS 42

Opening hours: Mon & Wed, 10am-4pm: Tues & Thurs, 10am-10pm: Fri, 10am-2pm: Sat 10am-4pm (closed Sun)

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Phone: +972 3 607 7020
Address: 27 Shaul Hamelech Boulevard
Directions: Part of the cultural precinct which includes the Opera House (Mishkan), Cameri Theatre and Central Library.
Helena Rubenstein Pavillion is approx 1.5kms away at the other cultural precinct - Habimah Theatre and Mann Auditorium (Israel Philharmonic)
Website: www.tamuseum.com

Wander round the old town of Jaffa - the oldest port in the world still in constant use.
A lovely Arab old town that was renovated in the 1960s, perched on a rocky prominitory above the Mediterranean (see separate tip). The port itself, while not so busy as it once was, remains a working port. So no fancy marina here with fancy restaurants. A couple of long-established fish restaurants and a small craft market on Saturdays is what you'll find (sadly the best restaurant closed down).

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Steep and stepped alleys lead from the main square to the port below. A bevy of galleries, museums, places of worship (Muslim, Christian, Jewish), antique shops and (not very good) cafes abound in the restored, bouganvillea shrouded streets with occasional glimpses of the sea. Overlook the port below. It may be over-restored (although amazingly it was done in the 1960s - it has a much more recent feel to it) but this is one of the most atmospheric of all places in Tel Aviv/Yafo.

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Old Jaffa is a biblical city with a varied past, including the invasion and carnage bestowed upon the Arab population by Napoleon. Until the beginning of the 20th century, a wary peace between Arabs and Jews has existed, but tensions rose and the Jews moved a couple of kms north to what is now present day Neve Tzedek, the southern suburb of modern day Tel Aviv. Christian and Moslem arabs lived (and continue to do so) side by side, highlighted by the density of religious buildings in the relatively small area of Old Jaffa. Many (but not all) are open to the public but all provide a fascinating history to the port and a sperb backdrop/foreground to modern Tel Aviv and the Mediterranean Sea.

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One of the major coastal icons of Tel Aviv is the rise of the Old City of Jaffa with the spire of St Peter's Church. The promenade from the northern beaches to the walls of Machmoudia Mosque runs along the shoreline and is a walk almost as natural as eating too much humus and pitta bread before the main grilled meats at any of the restaurants to be found at the base of the rise that leads you into the Old City. Whatever the weather and whatever the time of the day, with the Mediterranean on one side, this is a superb walk.

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Got a 1950s hoover with a missing part? Fancy an ornate but useable nargilah? Or a Hanukiah? Even hand-made furniture or electrical goods/cameras from dubious sources? Then the flea market in Jaffa is the right place. Set among the narrow streets of workshops and storage centres of end of 19th century Arab quarter, its a warren of junk, bargains and crafts. Open every day except Saturday - worth getting there early if you want to find a real bargain, otherwise wander through the alleys sifting the good stuff from the junk.

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Address: Sderot Yerushalayim, Jaffa
Directions: Near the Jaffa clocktower (left if travelling south)

Every Middle Eastern town and city has one - the produce market where fresh fruit, vegetables, bread and dairy products can be purchased, and, to one side of the main drag, the foul smelling meat section. Tel Aviv is no exception. As with most of these places, if it was it was in Western Europe or North America, it would probably be closed down overnight and replaced with indoor, white tiled, sanitised, soulless environs. Thankfully, those rules do not apply here. Full of character, the real essence of Tel Aviv is caught here - especially on Friday as people shop to they drop for the fear of running out of food during shabbat -:)

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Address: off Allenby St in the Yemenite Quarter

The oldest part of Tel Aviv. When relations between Jews and Arabs (same old story) became untenable in Jaffa at the beginning of the 20th century, the Jewish community moved out and set up what was to become modern day Tel Aviv - a couple of kms outside Jaffa.
It is now becoming gentrified, with some of the costliest real estate in Tel Aviv. But it remains a tight-knit area of narrow streets and low rise buildings. although it is easier to buy the latest in fashion or ceramic or silverware than it is to buy milk or honey...

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