Hue Things to Do Tips by leffe3

Started in 1804, the huge Citadel is to be found on the west bank of the Perfume River. A 10km moated perimeter surrounded the citadel, with houses, temples and the Imperial Compound contained within it. The IC had 4 main gates, with the main and most ornate being the Ngo Mon Gate.

The central passageway in the gate was reserved for the use of the emperor only. Sitting on top of the gate is Ngu Phung (Belvedere of the Five Phoenixes) from where the emperor made his public appearances. It is from here that Bao Dai abdicated in 1945 to Ho Chi Minh's Provisional Revolutionary Government, thus ending the Nguyen dynasty.

Nowadays the gate forms the entrance to the Imperial Compound (entrance fee 55,000 Dong - approx US$3.75).

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Having paid your entrance fee to the Imperial Enclosure, immediately ahead of you is the Thai Hoa Palace. Built in 1803, it was moved to this site in the 1830s and miraculously survived the US bombardment.

It was primarily used for the emperor's official state functions - it is essentially a large ornate throne room, devoid of much furniture, but is a dark hall with many lacquered and carved wooden columns.

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Moving through the Thai Hoa Palace, you come to a courtyard, on either side of which are the rather uninteresting Halls of Mandarins (which now show somewhat dull exhibitions). But the courtyard between them, which would have been the limit for virtually all subjects to the emperor, shows the level of devastation from the bombings in the 1968 Tet offensive. Instead of a (restricted view) of imperial buildings, walls, gateways and gardens are acres of green (grass and agricultural activity), interspersed with the occasional crumbling wall, semi-restored pavillion or lone-standing gateway.

Walking round the place is a mix of calm and eeriness - there is something strangely relaxing, espcially towards the end of the day. Even as a major tourist attraction, there are times when you feel as if you have the whole place to yourself - and those glimpses through archways of restored or semi-restored buildings are all the more interesting with a feeling of just 'coming across them' by chance.

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Within the Imperial Compound complex is the Forbidden Purple City, an area reserved solely for the personal use of the emperor, the only servants allowed being eunuchs. Sadly, much of it was destroyed in response to the Tet Offensive by the US Army. Now it is grassy banks between the occasional still-standing wall with some local agriculture taking place. One building that did remain standing (although it underwent some renovation) is the lovely Emperor's Reading Room surrounded by landscaped gardens.

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Dong Ba, on the west side of the river in the shadow of the Trang Tien Bridge is a wonderful clash of fresh fruit and vegetables, spices and livestock. Further from the bridge, household goods and clothing can also be found. And there's a plethora of those fantastic conical hats!

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Aprroximately 3kms to the west of the Citadel is one of Vietnam's most important pagodas - Thien Mu.

The main 7 storey tower, 21 metres high, was built in 1844, but there has been a pagoda on this site since 1601. Thien Mu was a hotbed of anti-government protest in the 1960s - it was from here that Thich Quang Duc travelled to (then) Saigon in 1963 to self-immolate himself in protest about the treatment of Buddhists. The car which he travelled to his death is proudly displayed in the grounds of the courtyard.

Entry is free to the Pagoda.

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The highlight of Hue is the full day Perfume River trip visiting the main Nguyen Royal Tombs (although for those with less time on their hands, it is possible to visit by car or motorcycle).

For less than US$2, the boat leaves Hue at 8am and returns at approximately 4pm. The trip calls at Tu Duc, Khai Din and Minh Mang tombs, Hon Chen Temple and Thien Mu Pagoda. It does not include the entry price to the tombs or the motorcycles that collect you to go on to Tu Duc and Khai Din.

I have placed the individal tombs etc in the 'off the beaten track' on these pages.

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