This Page is Dedicated to All Friends I met in the past two years in this lovely country, and mainly to Alba Lucia, Ana Milena and to Rodriguez and Bastidas' family. Thanks for the ospitality. You'll be always on my mind. I also thank Daria Juliet for loving me so deeply. Tell Diego Felipe he's a nice boy!!
If you believe everything you read in the newspapers, you may have a strange idea that Colombia, or 'Locombia' - the mad country - as the press like to call it, may not be the ideal place to visit. But don't be unduly discouraged; although the violence, cocaine cartels and guerrilla insurgency that dominate the headlines are very real, they do not necessarily impact on the personal safety of travelers who keep their wits about them.
The Colombia that you don't hear about in the newspapers is surprisingly relaxed and is inhabited by extremely personable and spirited people pursuing orderly lives. Its cities may be daunting, but it has some wonderful towns, Caribbean beaches, cordilleras, Andean valleys and Amazonian rainforest. Steeped in myth and mysticism, Colombia, when safe, is arguably the most underrated travel destination on the continent.
Warning
The US State Department warns US citizens that 'there is a greater risk of being kidnapped in Colombia than in any other country in the world.' This advice is relevent to travelers of all nationalities. The department considers the entire area east of the Andes (except Leticia) and the north coast (except Barranquilla, Cartagena, San Andres and Santa Marta) dangerous. Specific departments that are considered security risks include Cundinamarca, Antioquia, northern Choco, southern Tolima, and rural areas of Valle de Cauca, Huila and Cauca. However, if you follow this advice, there is not much of Colombia left to explore. The best way to avoid trouble is to read the local press (en español, por su puesto) to monitor recent guerrilla movements and avoid areas where guerrillas reign.
In 1998 at least 2000 people were kidnapped (a world's record), including 40 foreigners. These are the official figures, but it's estimated that there may be up to 50% more unpreported cases negotiated privately with the abductors. Don't wear expensive items of clothing or carry expensive cameras or handbags, because this will increase your chance of being robbed. Give a wide berth to Colombian police unless you absolutely need them as they have a less than savory reputation. Drugs, especially cocaine and its derivatives, are prevalent throughout the country and should be avoided at all costs. Don't accept drinks or cigarettes from strangers as they may be laced with borrachero, a soporific drug often used on hapless tourists.
Cartagena de Indias is legendary both for its history and its beauty. It has been immortalized on countless canvases, glorified in hundreds of books and had its every detail photographed a zillion times - and, as Colombia's most fascinating city, it deserves every one of these tributes.
The walled old town of this fortified Spanish colonial port is a gem. It's packed with churches, monasteries, plazas, palaces and noble mansions with overhanging balconies and shady patios. It pays to just wander through the old town, but some of the highlights are the Palacio de la Inquisición; the colonial mansion Casa del Marqués de Valdehoyos; and the lovely old port of Cartagena on the Bahía de las Ánimas.
The less touristy Getsemaní, the outer walled town, also has charming pockets but is not so well-preserved. Nearby, there are a handful of impressive Spanish forts, including the 17th-century Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, undoubtedly the greatest and strongest fortress ever built by the Spaniards in their colonies. The Islas del Rosario, 30km (20mi) offshore southwest of Cartegena, have magnificent coral reefs and abundant marine life, making them popular with snorkelers and scuba divers. The L-shaped peninsula south of the old town contains the upmarket holiday resorts of Bocagrande and El Laguito. Most budget travelers stay in Getsemaní; there are mid-range options in the old town.
Other highlights of Colombia's Caribbean coast include the town of Mompós, which is an architectural showcase; the beaches of the Parque Nacional Tayrona; the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the tallest coastal mountain range in the world; the mud volcanoes of Arboletes; and, deep in the jungle, the ancient city of the Tayrona Indians, La Ciudad Perdida, which is the largest archaeological find in the Americas this century.
Adventurous jungle tours of the Amazonian interior can be arranged in Leticia. Well-equipped guides are thick on the ground and tours of up to 10 days can be easily arranged. High-speed film - the jungle is often gloomy - and mosquito repellent are a must.
Hints:It takes 3 Hours strenuous walking in the wild jungle to get to Pueblito.From S. Marta take a bus heading eastward, get off at Calabazo and enter the Tayrona Parque. There are no sign during the trek so ask to the voltures. Theft and robberies have been reported along the way so don't carry and Jewel or Cash.
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