I was intending to embark on some mammoth odyssey that would embrace most parts of the ex-Soviet Union and would end in either Kamchatka or Buryatia. In the end I ran out of money, time and will to see so many places, which meant I got to stay a whole week in both Turkey and Armenia, before returning through Georgia and the Russian Caucasus to Ukraine. Obviously this wasn't nearly long enough, and I can't wait to go back. I don't think we really got the hang of Armenia, and certainly didn't work out how to handle some of the locals, who went out of there way to befriend and offer us hospitality, only to use this against us later. We had several vaguely scary, but mostly surreal, nights under the stars at Lake Sevan, paradoxically one of the most tranquil and stunning places I've been. |