cochinjew's VirtualTourist Home Page

My recent Havana Diaries are at www.medicoanthropologist.blogspot.com

I have to visit five women, I am sure that European tourists would immediately have a picture of me, in some centre of nocturnal entertainment, entwined in the arms of a shapely mulatta! No these are the five people, who have kept in touch with me and have kept the fire of my love for Cuba going during my absence.
ALP was a professor at the Univesity in the department of Religion and had gone abraod on some educational missions(believe it or not, she was once sent to Sao Tome and Principe!). Grown up in the pre revolutionary era of bourgeoisie, she gladly made the transition, but bad luck had tracked her all her life. Her only son, an artist as well as a doctor, went on a mission to Cabo Verde islands and did not return, which is an unforgivable crime by Cuban government standards. Her husband was a well known professor of International Affairs, who died a couple of years ago. She is left here in the island with her son away, unable to come and see her and she is not given visa to visit him, a large apartment by the malecon. Yesterday I went to her house around 10 am in the morning and we were talking and talking until 5 pm.
Don’t be away so long, my friends are saying to me, we have so much to discuss. Like the people who work with the Indians, who ask me for a n international perspective on their work, cubans in the island would like to know my opinion about their personal life as well as the political changes which are constantly taking place in the country
CGM is a professor of psychology and a good friend of mine for a long time, like the above. She is very content to live here in Cuba and has no intention to migrate or seek her fortune elsewhere and tries to live well within her means, within the salary allotted to her. She was once married to a well known painter, so when you enter her house, the large works of art stares at you. Her only daughter, graduated from University of Havana, studying about Autism and then went on to the University in Spain, where she has distinguished herself with her doctorate (cum laude). Proud of her daughter, her country , she has done excellent investigations into one of the neglected aspects of Diabetes, the psychological aspeects of Sex and reproduction in patients with Diabetes and as such is invited to all parts of the world to give talks and present papers. Just this last month, with two colleagues from the Institute whichis attached to the Institute of Endocrinology they were in Sao Paolo Brasil. She travels two to three times a year, with about a month or so per year or two in Spain. I have never heard a single negative word about life in Cuba.
LS is my mother, my cuban mother who has facilitated hours of intellectual stimulation fo rme. She holds a high and respected position in the Ministry of Culture. She has introduced me to writers and artists, always provides me the names of the cuban ambassadors to the coutnries I am travelling to and keeps me in touch with the literary life in Cuba. She is also widely travelled but prefers her quiet life, with its necessary official duties, in a small apartment in Vedado, surrounded by original artworks including Guayasamin, whom she counted, among many well known artists, as a friend.

AA is an investigator at the Institute of Endocrinology in the Departmentof Psychology and we immediately took a liking to each other, when we met at the meeting of Assocaition of latin American Socieites of Diabetes in November 2007. She is a good correspondent and has kept me in touch with the tunes and tides of this society. In her early thirties, she has a son, well integrated into the educational system of Cuba. She is from a seaside town nearby. She has been married to an American journalist who has lived in Cuba for more than ten years. So meet the two of them for dinner is a pleasure indeed, to hear various viewpoints about life in Cuba. He is never vitrioliic about Cuba or USA, where his parents still live. They were waiting for me at the airport when I arrived. They also introduced me to ArteChef, and this time we plan to try another new restaurant La Torre. She has aquiline spanish features, and carries the proud name of one of the great cuban revolutionaries of the 19th century. She gets to travel to the USA with her husband once in a year or two and once in a while attends a conference abroad.
The last woman I came to see, LL, is a story in fortitude and determination. In her early thirties, she was struck with Hodgkins Lymphoma in her teens, and underwent treatment here in Havana. That did not stop her from completing her studies here at the university majoring in Psychology and also going to Lima, Peru to complete her Master’s degree. A clever investigator, I would very much like to collaborate with her, since she studies the psychological effects on people suffering Endocrine disorders. I look forward to a good conversation with her, in which we could discuss plans for her Doctoral studies.
So you can understand why my life in Cuba is one of sheer pleasure. A Cuban bourgeoisie woman who was on the plane from Miami to Nassau going on vacation to Atlantis, asked me, how is your life in Cuba, I answered, I have spent some of the best years of my life in Cuba, it was the epoca de oro for me. The solidarity of the Cuban people, the sheer nature of their affection and this is the country I have the best and the longest discourses about all and every thing in life. (France is a possibility but not until I become proficient in French!)
Then there are many others, humble and holding responsible position, likeMr J who is a mechanic in the Food Production and Distribution branch of one governmental department, who sees the ice making and grain producing machines are working in order: Mrs M, daughter of a once brilliant ophthalmologist, who is the director of the Museum here and who has visited all the major museums of the world, to givejust two examples in Havana.
It is a pity that I cannot visit Baracoa before I leave for France. That s a minefield of affections fo rme. My adopted daughter Claudia lives there, like I was separated from my own father during my growng up days, she is from me. But we talk on the phone, and will make all efforts to see each other.
So, dear friends of mine from all parts of the world, you wont hear the pathetic cries of material shortages of the third world, nor of the restrictions placed on us by international economic meltdown, but only good news about the possibilities that are available to an enquiring mind: just this afternoon, I hope to meet, a doctor who was in charge of pupblic health and prevention and is now working in Panama and Rdominicana; a metaphysical poet; the ambassador I met in Hanoi… What else? I shall just wait… Havana to me is always an unending feast… and I don’t need Mojitos or Daiquiries!

the year 2009 travels. Pondichery/Madras, India. USA. France. Bangalore,India. Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia and Yangon, Burma.
4 july Happy Independence day America.. I am at Prequile Quiberon to rest for a few days. New York City next and then a Native Pow Wow. Miami. then Paris, Bangalore, KL, PhnomPenh, Yangon, back to Miami...

I am not a great fan of travel guides or travel magazines but recently i have come across a magazine which really suited my tastes: MONOCLE. as it says it is a brif on global afairs, business, culture and design. I highly recommend it
I dont remember when it started, but must have been early enough in life, this lust for books and places to find them.
Melbourne was a good place to scrounge for books, remember lots of little bookstores near the university.
in Tokyo there is a street that sells used books but very rarely you could get good used books in English
While a student in London, Foyles was a favourite haunt and also the book fair at Hay on Wye?
Books and Books in Miami and the owner Mr Kaplan are institutions on their own right
In omaha, jackson street booksellers never disappoint me, always something or other to buy there, long lost in memory.
Powells in Portland is a destination in itself, i have spent up to one week in that bookstore, reading writing drinking coffee and buying books.
There are small book shops of note: one in san antonio, one in soldier, iowa in the middle of nowhere. of course, la habana never disappoints a book lover, since you can also meet the people who wrote them.
In Yangon there is a street close to downtown where old books are sold and it is a surprise to come across to some rare tome on burmese life and well worth the look
in Bangalore, without doubt it is Premier Bookstore, I cannot respect any one who lives in Bangalore and has not visited this bookstore and chatted with the owner. a nice cup of coffee from the government store across the street await you.
Add to this list a second hand bookstore in the main street of Vermillion the home of University of South Dakota. I got a few books on a recent stopover there.
On a visit to Bangalore, a stop over just to visit Premier Book Store, I needed to buy an extra bag for all the books I bought at the bookstore. I will post a list under Bangalore pages...

left over from the other pages
11 june 2008. In Paris, leaving for Miami, San Francisco and Havana. You cannot imagine how much I miss Mi Isla Rica, mi Cuba, my little Island and my dearest friends..
1 april 2008 Los Angeles Airport. waiting for the Qantas Flight to Melbourne. Cuba seems very far from here, but it does not have to be far from your heart. I think of my friends who are there and in the months of absence, I will be in close touch with them.

I am an Australian, from South Caulfield in Victoria, but have been associated with Baracoa and Cuba for a while now. I hold the position of Visiting Professor of Anthropology at the University of Havana Cuba (I also have academic appointments in London and USA).
I have lived in Brunei, Australia (Adelaide, Melbourne and Brisbane), Sweden, England, USA, Jamaica and as you can see have visited more than 100 countries and territories.
But as Alistair Reid had mentioned, however we may search, we may not find the place for ourselves, but the place will find you. I had come to Baracoa many many years ago with a good friend of mine, in search of rare palms of this region and it was a love at first sight, reminding of the many atolls that i had visited in the area of the world that given me the legal nationality. Since then i have grown with the city and friendships that have evolved. I am not an apologetic for the local government or the false cultural representatives or the american and mulattos who come to parade themselves as Taino Indians in Baracoa. But this village of Baracoa is so full of gentle people, maintaining a rhythm all of its own, marginalized from the history of the rest of Cuba. Recently a friend of mine, from the Research Institute of Foreign Ministry presented her doctoral thesis about the history and marginalization of Baracoa from the rest of the country since 19th Century. For majority of the people in Baracoa, this marginalization suits well their lethargy imposed upon them against their will by the authorities.
Favourite Country in the Americas: Cuba
Favourite Country in Asia: Myanmar
Favourite Country in Africa: Ghana
Favourite Country in Australasia: Australia OF COURSE
Favourite Country in Europe: France OBVIOUSLY
Montreal, Miami, SF, La Habana, Sao Paolo, Buenos Aires, Merida
London, Paris
CapeTown, Zanzibar
Cochin, Malacca,Yangon
Melbourne, Brisbane, Cairns,Suva

I am unashamedly addicted to good food, will travel great lengths for it. Refuse to eat bad food even if I am hungry (dont touch Pizza, Hamburgers etc in USA for example). Like wine (malbec, torrontes, southern wines) for more than health reasons.
I have eaten well throughout my travels but bad exceptions stand out: Namibia, Ghana, unfortunately in Cuba except in Baracoa, places I have to be in USA where Native Americans live.....
Best Airline Food flying long distances:
in Business Class, Continental is hard to beat. MH and SQ. Delta has a good wine selection
was not impressed with Business Class: Air India, Emirates, JAL. Air France does it with style, the food on a recent flight but nothing short of excellent
Virgin Upper Class is also very good. Peiper HiesDeick Champagne, lovely chenin blanc from RSA, Salmon etc etc..
Lovely to visit Premier Bookstores in Bangalore, one fo the main reasons I like to stop in that city of noise pollution and pretention: Books recommended by mr Shanbagh and brought over to this part ofthe world include:
The Indians , a Portrait of a People by Sudhir Kakkar
The Reluctant Fundamentalist by Mohsin Hamid
Speaking Havoc: Social suffering and South Asian Narratives ed: Ramu Nagappan
David Leavitt: The indian clerk about the brilliant Tamoul mathematician Srinivasan Ramanujan
Time Treks: The uncertain furture of old and new despotisms by Ashis Nandy
Front line Pakistan; zahid Hussain
Culture and Public Actionedited by Vijayendra Rao and Miachael Walton
The ugliness of the Indian Male by Mukul Kesavan
Without Mr Shanbagh's help I would have to wait for months or even years to hear about them. He has such an eclectic taste and he helps others by stocking books no other book store ..This is one of the best.. anywhere int he world..

I am changing skins, from Teh Tahrek (milky tea brought into Malaysia with the Indian rubber tappers a century ago) to Champagne ( Piper Heisdeick Reserve Brut 2003). Idlis, Roti Canai has given way to Salmon and Broccoli Quiche..

Menu on this flight:

Malabari Prawns and tamarind seed sesame potato

Salmon served with potato wedges, pumpkin, asparagus and leek sauce

Praline Kulfi Icecream

An excellent wine; Senga Chenin Blanc, Coastal Region, South Africa 2007.

In just nine hours, 7 40 pm Paris Time ( it is 9 55 am there now), I will be landing at London Heathrow on this flight from Bombay Airport.

Centuries and memories are left behind.

Now planning, executing and feeling comfortable in the skin of my choice: the western professor, the doctor anthropologist.

Thanks to those welcomed and bid adieu in Siem Reap,Kuala Lumpur, Madras and Bangalore and welcome to the hugs and kisses waiting in Paris, Miami and the Americas, especially in Cuba..

There is a great travel book called

Saddest Pleasure

About an American who moved to Ecuador who describes his bare bone travel through South America

And he begins his introduction with the following quote:

Travel is the saddest of all Pleasures..



I toast you with this glass of Drambuie with Ice..



Sudah Yehuda

Heart is in Paris

Soul is in Cuba

The Passport is Australian, for this wandering Jew.

A young Arab French girl with a visible bulging belly and her hair dyed blonde serves me a glass of house wine. As happens in the evenings, a pianist is belting romantic, moody melodies on his piano in the hallway surrounded by restaurants of these very modern office complexes, La Defense. Friday evening. 7 pm. I have my baguette ready, so what if I am not home yet, I can wish you all a Shabbat shalom. Next Friday night, 8 June, I hope to be lighting the candles at the home of Sister Jackie in Miami, on 16th June, I will be with sister friend Dar in Yakima, Washington and on the 23rd, as the sun goes down with the Havdalah Service, I will be flying from Houston to Paris, and by the next Shabbat or thereabouts I should be on my way to the most Buddhist of the countries, Myanmar. Such is the life of this modern day wandering Jew!
Paris is a delight to the eyes. I am not talking about the classic and modern architecture. While my little island of Cuba offers, along with Brasil, the most sensuous of human beings, Paris has an elegance I have not seen elsewhere, not even in my beloved Buenos Aires! This city has the best dressed black people on earth, lithe and dignified; eat your hearts out, Cape Town, London and New York!! People are more overweight than before, but the French are the least overweight of all Europeans (20% compared to 45% in the UK and around 65 % in Australia and USA), but it cannot be Calories, Fat content or the extra alcohol. Lunch today was two pieces of steamed fish, Merluza, with a citron sauce on a bed of steamed vegetables, a salad of Leek in cheese, rice with thick sauce, some haricots, and then a healthy chunk of Roquefort cheese, to be consumed BEFORE, mind you, eating the fruit salad. Minimum time for lunch is one hour, but it usually stretches into two, perhaps there lies the myth of calories and overweight, the French take time over their lunches, in the USA, at some of the clinics where I work, they allot a mere 30 minutes for lunch, enough time to gulp down some preserved food, fatty and highly toxic!! I believe, it is not what you eat that matter, how you eat it, with whom you eat with, how slowly you eat your food and the relaxation at the table. If you don’t have time to eat, don’t eat, but don’t use it as an excuse to gulp down poorly prepared food! In fact, for one of my patients, I wrote down a prescription, One hour for Lunch to be permitted, if she wishes her to remain healthy. I think of the many delightful meals prepared by my younger brother friend Shimon... Always a pleasure, schmooze, endless chatter, glasses of wine, conversation and a good coffee to follow. Always a pleasure, Shimon… I look for ward to the Chupah, you and Avital in Haifa, with your parents Shmulik and Nava, in October...

I am thinking of the person that I have continuously known for the longest period of time, my younger brother Ricardo. How I wish I was sharing this Shabbat with him in Sde Bkr, in Eretz Israel. Soon enough, Brother. My brother Eliyahu’s eldest daughter, a classic mizrachi American beauty, 11 years old, is counting the days she can set off for her first international trip without her parents, to Paris, nevertheless, arranged by the French School she attends in Portland. My brother and his wife would pick her up at the end of her stay, at the end of this month, my Asian brother who is far more comfortable in Kobe or Cambodia will have to be finding out for himself the beauties of this city...
Reading a wonderful book at the moment, currently devouring Indian literature in English, Pankaj Mishra, Amitav ghosh, Terun Tejpal and this author, Shashi Tharoor, a former UN undersecretary, of Cochin origin, born in London, now lives in New York. This book is a positive analysis of he character of his country INDIA (the title of the book as well) of which he is so proud of. (He speaks perfect French, I saw him on French TV when he was in Paris to celebrate, the Indian Book week). I highly recommend this book as it explains, from a very liberal point of view, what it means to be an Indian, not the hollow bombastic, narrow minded hollers you hear in the writings intended for the west. The other books by Indian writers in English, recently read include
Pankaj Mishra The temptations of the West Excellent chapter on Indira Gandhi and her mishandling of the corrupt political establishment of India.
Terun Tejpal The Alchemy of Desire. This has to be one of the more exquisite romances from India, human and passionate
Amitav Ghosh The hungry Tide. Exciting story set in the Sunderbans region of Bengal. Having a doctorate in Anthropology, Ghosh weaves into his tale, bits of information, lying deep in the archives. Typically, how did the Irrawaddy Dolphin get its name?
Reading shashi Tharoor’s explanation of cultural identity, following that, I have claim to Malaysian and Australian Nationalities (but only hold Australian nationality), I could define myself thus for others (since they seean Indian when they look at me!)
An Australian Jew who is at home in many parts of Asia: Brunei, Malaysia, Burma, Cambodia who calls Baracoa, Cuba home but lives in Paris, France, works with the Indigenous people of America.
To that I add,
The above person cares about you, who will be reading these notes of a wanderer, as this quiet Shabbat begins, sitting at Paradis du Fruit, a post modern café in Paris, where the waiters are remnants of Algeria, Pondicherry and Jaffna and Saigon..
I miss my little island, Cuba, very much, and the untold genuine affections there, can’t call them or chat with them on line or enter into regular communications with them by post, but the tenderness is there.
On this Shabbat, welcome to some new friends from Ljubljana and Warszawa, hello to my friends from the Malay peninsula and the islands, my Kickapoo and hocank sisters, an old friend LMS, other friends in Miami, San Antonio, BA, SP, La Habana and elsewhere, our circle of love grows bigger and bigger…
So, dear friends, brothers, teachers, sisters, lovers and others…
Welcome to this world within a world, we are living a Dream, dreaming of itself (said the Jhu!huasi from !tsumkwe in the Kalahari)…
Welcome to some dear friends from Havana, one from Baracoa, one new friend from KL....life goes on.