I lived in Kazakhstan (Zhambyl, which is now called Taraz, and Almaty) in the summer and fall of 1994. During that time, I did some traveling around with my job, and spent time in Chimkent, Kzyl-Orda, and all around the Zhambyl region. In December 1995, I went back to Kazakhstan for a week in Temir-Tau, near Karaganda. More recently, I've traveled in 2004 and 2006 to a more businesslike Kazakhstan, one that's becoming part of the global capital markets. In 2004 I spent time in Almaty, Chimkent, and Kzyl-Orda (again!), and in 2006 I visited the new capital of Astana as well as Almaty.
Living in Kazakhstan was a great experience. For one thing, my Russian improved vastly because I was speaking it pretty much every waking hour--not a lot of English to be heard there. I learned a few words of Kazakh (plus the letters that they have added into the Cyrillic alphabet) and still use what I can when I travel these days to Turkey. I made wonderful friends in Zhambyl, the memories of whom still make me smile to this day. I wish I had an opportunity to go back there and see them again.
Kazakhstan in 1994 was a pretty poor country; the infrastructure was fairly awful. You pretty much had to make your own fun, since standard developed-market entertainments (like restaurants) and tourist-oriented attractions were very thin on the ground. But we had plenty of good times anyway--it's amazing what a couple of huge jars of fresh-from-the-factory beer will do for a party! I learned a lot about Kazakh culture from my work colleagues, since the population of Zhambyl was mostly ethnic Kazakh (as opposed to Russian). The Kazakh traditions, which seem to combine Islamic, Chinese, and even Indian influences, were really interesting to me. I've included a few photos on this page that illustrate them.
What was not so nice about Kazakhstan was that from what I could see, the corruption was worse than anywhere I'd been in Russia, and that's saying a lot. My work put me in close contact with a lot of public officials, and seeing how they ran things made me understand why the country was so mired in poverty. These days there is a lot more money around--for some people--but the level of corruption doesn't seem to have reduced. While Almaty and Astana are seeing tremendous growth and wealth, that money doesn't seem to be doing much for the majority of the population.
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The traditional home for...
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The traditional home for Kazakh nomads is the yurt, a wood-frame felt tent that is decorated on the inside with... more travel advice
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Go hiking in the nearby mountains. It's very easy to get to some beautiful hiking spots, which are accessible from the... more travel advice
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And still more from the helicopter...here's our landing spot for lunch: more travel advice
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Comments (34)
My dad and his two sisters ended up in Almaty near the end of WWII. Then they walked to Palestine. He always wanted to return and find where his mother was buried. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Julie, Your photos from the helicopter are marvelous! Also, Kazakhstan looks like a place that is full of adventures. Best regards from New Jersey, Bill
Our trip to Kazakhstan was my first taste of the 'stans, and I loved it. You paint some vivid pictures of your time there. leyle
What an incredible experience to live for a period of time in Kazakhstan in the "early days". Thanks for sharing. SL :)
Hi Julie! Now that I'm so close to it, am thinking of making a trip here. Any hassle with the visa application for you? I mean as a tourist. :) How's life with you these days?
Very interesting pages on Kazakh and Uzbek Julie. You have a way with words when it comes to describing food ... your description of besh parmak had me in splits :))))
Great pages....Specially i loved your Victoria Falls page...i will go soon and want to enjoy the "Zambezi lager"....Eskerrik asko/felicidades
Hi Julie! I hope your trip went well and that you're doing well:-)! I just got back from a camping trip around the country which was great:-)
So did you ever get to live in a Yurt?!!! I thought it was the eye that was the important part given to the guest?!!! I remember a LP film on Discovery showing Ian chewing it for a long time!!! You only live once so live life to the fullest!!!
Hope things are going well . . .
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