Culture The art of Côte... and other Cote D'Ivoire Local Custom Tips

Culture
The art of Côte d'Ivoire is among the best in West Africa and is distinct to each ethnic group. Three groups stand out - the Baoulé, the Dan (or Yacouba) and the Senoufo - all known for their wooden carvings. The most common Dan mask is that of a human face, slightly abstract but with realistic features. Another common Dan carving is that of a large spoon for serving rice; such spoons typically have two legs of human form and rest standing up on their legs. Traditionally used in commemorative ceremonies, Baoulé facial masks are very realistic and intended to portray individuals who can be recognised by their facial marks or hairdos. Senoufo masks are highly stylised: the most famous is the 'fire spitter' helmet mask, which is a combination of antelope, wart hog and hyena.

Though the country has two of the largest Catholic cathedrals in the world, only 12% of the people are Christian and most of those are Protestant. About a quarter of the population is Muslim, most of whom live in the north. The majority practise traditional religions involving ancestral worship. They believe that the dead are transformed into spirits and remain in constant contact with the living; through various rituals, the living seek their blessings and protection. Magic is also common, and good magic keeps evil spirits away. Medicine men or juju priests dispense charms, tell fortunes and give advice on how to avoid danger. They also bless grisgris, necklaces of charms that ward off specific evils. The Senoufo people in particular have held very strongly to their traditional beliefs. Children are instructed over many years in the history and social mores of the Senoufo and are then secretly initiated into it.

World famous reggae artist Alpha Blondy is Côte d'Ivoire's best known singer, though his music isn't necessarily representative. The country's traditional music style is characterised by a series of melodies and rhythms occurring simultaneously, without one dominating the others. Historically, this music has been the prerogative of just one social group, the griot (village entertainers), who use only instruments they can make with local materials, such as gourds, animal skins and horns. Côte d'Ivoire's most famous and prolific writer is Bernard Dadié, whose work has been widely translated. One of his first novels, Climbié (1971), is an autobiographical account of a childhood journey to France. Other well-known national novelists include Aké Loba and Ahmadou Kourouma.

In villages and African-style homes in the cities, African food is eaten with the hands. Attiéké is a popular Côte d'Ivoirian side dish. A lot like couscous, it's made of grated cassava. You'll find attiéké at a maquis - typically an inexpensive, open air restaurant with chairs and tables in the sand. Côte d'Ivoire's claim to culinary fame, maquis normally feature braised chicken and fish smothered in onions and tomatoes, served with attiéké, or kedjenou, a chicken dish made with vegetables and a mild sauce. One of the tastiest street-vended foods is aloco, which is ripe banana in palm oil, spiced with steamed onions and chilli and eaten alone or with grilled fish. Bangui is a local palm wine.

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