Cusco Off the Beaten Path Tips by Paul2001

From the exterior San Blas is just a bland looking church when compared to the others that you find in Cusco, however inside it has one important aspect that makes a visit worthwhile. That is the exquisitely carved pulpit. Some call this the finest example of wood carving in the Americas and to be honest I have yet to have seen anything comparable in my travels. It is not known for certain who exactly carved this masterpiece but it was most likely the work of a 17th century native craftsman named Tomas Tuyro Tupa. The pulpit was carved out of cedar in the Churrigueresque style. Beyond the pulpit there is actually very little inside of the chapel that is distinguished. Entry to the church is included in the Cusco Tourist Ticket.
Of note about the picture posted here. I was not allowed to take a photo of the pulpit itself as San Blas as in all the churches in Cusco, photos are not permitted. I scanned this image from a postcard I purchased outside on the square.

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The Museo de Arte Religioso is located in a beautiful colonial palace just two blocks to the east of the Plaza de Armes. It houses an impressive collection of religious art created by local artisans during Peru's colonial period. A visit to the museum will allow you see some fine paintings, goldleaf carvings, wonderful stainglass work and mosaics. The museum does not receive that many visitors regardless of the fact that entry is included on the Cusco Tourist Ticket. As visiting the museum will not only allow you see some of the best examples of colonial art that I saw in Peru but a good opportunity to tour superb colonial palace, I recommend that you check the museum out.
The museum is open from Monday to Saturday from 8-11:30am and 3-5:30pm.

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Phone: 084/251-211

Before setting off to Peru I had never heard of Pikillacta and new nothing of the Wari (or the Huari). I only knew of Pikillacta after my visit to the National Museum in Lima where I saw a large model of the layout of the ruins. Having a morning to spare I though I would visit the place. I rented a taxi through my hotel and off I went. I thought that it was well worth the expense of the cab ride (60 Sols). The site was really interesting, if you like ruins that is.
Pikillacta is the only Wari site in the region around Cusco. It dates from the early 12th century. The city consisted of a grid system of streets. The houses were two stories in height with the entrance on the second floor with ladder or stairway up to the door. The city was surrounded by a high stone wall that is largely still in place around the ruins. As far as ruins go, the setting of Pikillacta is nowhere near as spectacular as Machu Picchu or some of the other Inca sites. The stonework of the Wari was noticably inferior to the Incas. Still I think if you are interested in the ancient history of Peru you should visit the site as the Wari have a very important place in Peruvian history. They were in fact the first civilization in Peru that spread by means of military conquest.
When I toured the site, I was virtually the only foriegn tourists on their. The only other persons on the site were a touring university group, archeologists and their labourers. It was interesting to wander around alone without the hardsell of guides and hawkers bothering you.
Pikillacta is open from 7am to 6pm daily. Admission is by the boleto turístico only which begs the questions if it is covered by boleto turístico why more tourists do not visit the place.

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Probably one of my great surprises was my visit to the shamefully overlooked ruins of Tipon. These marvelous Inca ruins are among the most spectacular in the Cusco region but during my visit few if any foriegn tourist were there other than myself. There were lots of Peruvian school children however.
Tipon is the location of agricultural terraces that are watered by a small stone carved channel. Construction of these terraces was so well managed that that one cannot believe that they were completed without modern machinery. Once walking along the perimeter of the terraces you can make your way up the mountain ridge to some small Inca temples. From here there are superb view of the ruins and of the surrounding valley.
To reach the ruins at Tipon, you should rent a taxi like I did with a visit to the ruins of Pilkillacta included. The taxi will proceed 4km up a dirt road that leads off of the main road to Puno. This a windy road that involves dodging livestock along the way.
Admission to Tipon is included on the Boleto Turistico which makes me wonder why more tourist do not make the effort to come here. The ruins are open from 7am to 6pm.

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Qenko is an Inca huaca located a short walk east from Sacsayhuaman. I saw it on a bus tour from Cusco. The word means "zigzag" in Quechua. Persumably it is called this because of the zigzaging channels cut into the limestone rock. The stone is remarkable for its carvings on the upper west end of the rock. These carvings and channels were used as part of rituals involving the upcoming growing season. Llambas blood would be poured down the channel and depending upon which way it flowed, it would indicate whether or not the locals could depend upon a good growing season or not. Beneath the main rock is a large tunnel where there is a huge rockcut altar. On the northside of the rock there is also a rockcut amphitheatre that was probably used for holding audiences for the rituals.
Qenko is open from 7am to 5pm and admission is included on the Cusco tourist ticket. The site is saturated by bus groups like the one I was on although to be honest it is only a relatively minor attraction.

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