"Hammam Lanf - Beach of the Nose" Hammam-Lif by maykal

Hammam-Lif Travel Guide: 1 reviews and 3 photos

"What's nice is that it's not just the "nose" beach, but every-other-part-of-the-body beach as well, the thigh beach and the breast beach and...and...and..."

Ali Du'aji in "Sleepless Nights" (Sahartu minhu al-layali)

It was Ali Du'aji's sketch of Hammam Lif (Hammam Lanf in Arabic) in the 1930's which aroused my curiosity about this down-at-heel resort on the wrong side of the Gulf of Tunis. He painted a picture of a colonial-style playground by the sea, a place where Tunisians and Europeans mixed, each party being entertained by the antics of the others, whether it be the "naked" French ladies frolicking in the waves, or the local women shielding faces behind white sifsaris. It sounded grand, smart, liberal...yet unable to compete with the trendy coastline north of Lac Tunis, Hammam Lif slowly slipped into a coma, languishing in decay...

Now little more than a commuter suburb, Hammam Lif contains few traces of its glory days...a semi-derelict casino here, an Art-Deco villa there. The town is supposed to awake from its slumber on Sundays when market stalls spring up on the main streets...I can only begin to imagine how deathly quiet the place is on other days, as Hammam Lif was hardly overflowing with life on my Sunday morning visit. Still, at only 25 minutes by train from Tunis, it was a worthwhile trip, a side to Tunis few visitors ever see. Other places are more beautiful, more interesting, more accommodating for tourists, but Hammam Lif makes for an off-beat excursion for those with time.

Pros and Cons
  • Pros:Relaxed, so laid back it is horizontal; only 25 minutes from Tunis by train
  • Cons:Beach is dirty, not much to see or do
  • Last visit to Hammam-Lif: Apr 2006
  • Intro Written Apr 6, 2006
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maykal

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