While it may not be paradise, Abu Qir is a decent enough place to head for if you prefer to relax on the beach without a motorway rushing behind you. Instead of the busy corniche which destroys any sense of peace on Alexandria's beaches, in Abu Qir you have apartment blocks literally tumbling onto the beach. A few cafes have set up tables and chairs on the sand, and you can buy good grilled fish from the local oven for lower prices than in town. An exclusive Greek restaurant lies at the eastern edge of the beach, but the rest is uncrowded and quiet. Beware if you go swimming, though...it was Bahr's first ever dip in the sea, and a crashing wave sent him sprawling on his front in the shallows, with much mirth had by the family of Egyptians next to us! Further out, the currents are strong...after a couple of minutes treading water, I realised I had moved about 100 metres down the beach.
Taxis from Alexandria are expensive, but you can reach Abu Qir by local minibus from Saad Zaghloul.
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