Platterpuss' VirtualTourist Home Page

My 9th year in Guangzhou is slowly creeping up on me and I believe I've reached a point where I need to start considering my "China exit strategy". The only other place I've lived longer is Southern California (9 years) but that included a stint in the Marine Corps Reserve and getting a degree in communications. The main reason for all the moving around was a father that was in the military. Though some people see all the moving as a disruption to life, I now look back and am thankful for all the experiences I've had. Here's a breakdown of places I've lived for more than than 6 months in my life:
1) Born in Taipei, Taiwan
2) Indianapolis, Indiana
3) Fayetville, North Carolina
4) Aiea, Hawaii
5) Arlington, Virginia
6) Seoul, Korea
7) Tokyo, Japan
8) "The OC" (Orange County), California
9) Aiea, Hawaii
10) Kunming, China
11) Aiea, Hawaii
12) Shanghai, China
13) Guangzhou, China
14) ???

The photo you see before you is a picture of buildings in the Dong Shan District and the Huang Hua Gang Martyr's Park (why must all parks in China be dedicated to martyrs?) on a rare clear day. Although the pollution can be bad on some days, it's not all pervasive and there are the occasional nice, clear days. What I like about it is that the weather is usually tolerable (though summers can be beastly at times). When people are freezing their asses off in Beijing, we have 20 degree (C) weather here :^)

On weekends, it's nice to get away from the city and the nearby areas just outside Guangzhou have some of the most beautiful countryside in south China. I joined a group of "drinkers with a running problem" called the Guangzhou Hash House Harriers. We meet every Saturday and board a bus to a location out of the city for a pleasant "run in the countryside". Afterwards we have silly little drinking games to wrap up a well spent day. Next time you stop off in Guangzhou, please pay us a visit. All newcomers are welcome and we meet near the Guangzhou Friendship Store on Taojin Rd at an American owned cafe called "Sportsman's" (8359-1509). It's a good way to meet new people both local and foreign and a great way to see the countryside outside of the city. Get a feel for the "real" China.

Guangzhou is a very convenient base for travel to other nice places in China or even Asia (with Hong Kong nearby). It's not as "Cosmopolitan" as Shanghai or Beijing but in some ways, the Cantonese way of staying Cantonese (unlike the two previously mentioned cities' desire to be western) is refreshing and I can respect that. They aren't total sellouts or pretentious.

People that have lived a long time in China generally agree that they have "bad China days" and "good China days". It seems my "bad China days" are not so frequent but I admit the place just doesn't hold too much interest for me anymore. Aside from probably shortening my lifespan (the pollution, acid rain, water, etc.), I think there will always be some local "customs" or "culture" that'll always bug me. Maybe this is South China specific, I don't know. I'll admit there have been fun times and I've had more than my share. I still want to see some parts of the country I've yet to see as well and with the new train to Tibet, I suppose I'd better see the place before Han Chinese culture completely whitewashes Tibetan culture and tradition...

The interesting juxtaposition of old pre-communist buildings with the new developments in central Guangzhou make a walk along the river a very pleasant experience.

It's in the old part of Guangzhou along the Pearl River and has many stately old western-style buildings from the turn of the 19th to 20th centuries. Most were banks, consulates or trading houses. It's a relatively peaceful walk and is now growing (for the better??) with more restaurants and coffee shops.

Guangzhou actually has a lot of acreage devoted to parks and "green areas". A lot of the streets are pleasantly tree lined as well. The government even went so far as to try to set up Guangzhou as "The Flower City" to be major center of botanical development. There are several oasis spots within the city to just get away from the constant noise pollution.

Recently the city has been refurbishing the 100+ year old Stone Cathedral and the grounds around it. The scaffolding has come down and the graceful old testament to good solid architecture looks as beautiful as ever. Matter of fact, as you sit in the area just off the busy, bustling street and wholesale markets nearby, you'd swear you were in Europe instead of south China!

"Car culture" has hit China in a big way and Chinese are discovering "their freedom" by buying cars and hitting the roads in droves (see July 2 NY Times Magazine article). Problem is that the vast majority are inexperienced drivers and coupled with some seriously arrogant road attitude, it's no wonder China has the highest road death numbers in the world.

So when you come here, be very aware and don't expect "road courtesy". I doesn't exist...

Looong after Beijing and Shanghai already had dozens of Starbucks and other assorted coffee shops and cafes, Guangzhou decided to join the fray too. In a way it was welcomed but now it seems everywhere you look there is some sort of wanna-be "cool" coffee lounge where people sit around and hardly spend money. I give credit to the Cantonese for holding out and keeping their own culture (dim sum, high tea, etc) for the longest time and not being so eager to sellout like the Beijingers or Shanghainese!

The Guangzhou Hash has been one of the best ways for city folk to see the countryside of Guangdong and other places. We run through local villages, up and around mountains and through reservoirs. Stuff most people wouldn't dream of seeing. Once in a while we go on roadtrips throughout the province or to other ones. One of our favorite places to hash is Yangshuo in Guangxi. Cum check us out!