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Mersin (Içel)
Mark Antony gave the lovely Cilician shores, the land between lanya and the Syrian Border to Cleopatra, as a wedding present. Also associated with the region's past is St. Paul a native of Tarsus. Today the region is known for its fertile soil which produces abundant crops, and for the hospitality of the region's denizens.
Surrounded by densely cultivated market gardens, Mersin, the provincial center of Içel, lies midway on the eastern Mediterranean coast of Turkey. Its shady palm-lined avenues, city park and modern hotels create a pleasant ambience from which to visit the nearby historical sites and numerous beaches. A rapidly developing city and the largest free-zone port on the Turkish Mediterranean, Mersin has a regular car ferry service to Gazimagosa (Famagusta) in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. In the fish market, sample the fresh catch in one of the several inexpensive restaurants, other local delicacies include cezire, a local confection of carrots roiled around a walnut center, and biberli ekmek, a small pizza topped with a spicy meatless sauce. Despite its very modem appearance, Mersin occupies the site of an extremely ancient city. At the Yumuktepe tumulus, three kilometres west of town, excavations have unearthed several successive settlements dating back to the Neolithic Age.
From Mersin to Anamur / A Gift for Cleopatra
The road from Mersin to Silifke closely follows the coast, passing by pine forests and orange groves. On one side lie the ruins of cities, basilicas and tombs, on the other a series of small secluded coves with sandy beaches. 13 km west of Mersin, a row of Corinthian columns that once lined the main street, remain at Viransehir (ancient Pompeiopolis), founded in 700 B.C. by Rhodians. At Kanlıdivane are the ruins of ancient Kanytelis, with tombs resembling small temples, churches and sarcophagi dating from Roman and Byzantine times. The city itself and the ruins are all on the sides of a deep chasm.
Kizkalesi, a holiday resort and the ancient site of Korykos, has fine sandy beaches, motels and camp sites. The Castle of Korykos on shore faces another fort, Kizkalesi (Maiden's Castle), that stands on a tiny island 200 meters offshore. Formerly a sea wall joined the two fortresses.
Just beyond Kizkalesi, on a bay lined with fish restaurants at the little fishing village of Narlikuyu, is a Roman mosaic depicting the Three Graces. Farther on are the deep chasms known as Cennet-Cehennem (Heaven and Hell). In the Vale of Heaven are the ruins of a fifth-century chapel. Nearby in the deep Narlıkuyu Cave, full of stalagmites and stalactites, the humid air is believed to aid sufferers of respiratory diseases.
The Mausoleum of the Fearless King (Mezgit Kalesi) is 12 km north of Susanoglu Beach and 2.5 km east of Pasli Village. The mausoleum facade is 8 meters high, with Corinthian columns and a 1 meter-high relief of Priapos on the base. It is the largest mausoleum and dates from Roman times.
Located slightly inland, Silifke (90 km from Mersin) spreads out at the foot of a hill. Crowned with a citadel this piece of high ground was formerly the acropolis of ancient Cilician Seleucia. In the town a Roman bridge crosses the ancient Calycadnos River, today called the Göksu. Atatürk once stayed in a local turn of-the-century house that has now been converted into the Ethnography Museum. The Silifke Archaeology Museum, on the way to Tasucu, is filled with relics from all over the area. In Demircili ( the ancient Imbriogon), north of Silifke on the way to Uzuncaburç; there are well-preserved monumental tombs of the early Roman period.
The drive up the mountain road to the magnificent ancient site of Diocaesarea, Uzuncaburç, at 1200 meters, is lined with large tombs. The remains of the impressive Temple of Zeus Olbius, the some Temple of Tyche, a monumental arch, theatre, Byzantine church, and tower are outstanding. Four kilometres to the east, the ruins of Olba (Ura) - the Roman aqueducts, theatre, and fountain -- make a quick tour well worthwhile.
Continuing along the coast road south from Silifke you come to Meryemlik (Ayatekla), a Roman necropolis with the tomb and church of St. Thecla, the first female martyr.
Tasucu, with good. accommodations for tourists, is a resort town with sandy beaches and a harbour. A regular sea bus and ferry boat service connects the town with Girne in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. Ovacik, 44 km west of Tasucu, is a quiet spot well-known for its fisherman's wharf and beach. The Peninsula (ancient Cavaliere) of Ovacık is one of the natural highlights of Turkey, an area ideal for diving. If this sport interests you, visit Kösrelik Bay and Kösrelik Island. Off the coast of Kösrelik Bay, you will find Roman ruins and beautiful mosaics in Afrodisias,18 km southeast of Ovacik. Aydincik, to the west of Ovacik, clearly marks the surrounding sailing waters ensuring safety for the yachts that ply this breathtaking stretch of coast. The shore road that clings to the pine-clad mountain slopes, which plunge steeply down to the sea, offers spectacular views of cliffs, coves and the brilliant turquoise waters of the Mediterranean. Another 36 km to the west of Aydincik, Bozyazı is a holiday center with clean and roomy camping sites along its wide beaches.
The fine, well-preserved Anamur Castle, set between two curving sandy beaches, commands a splendid view of the coastline. Originally built by the Crusaders in the Middle Ages, it later served as an Ottoman stronghold.
138 km from Silifke and a few km inland, the town of Anamur, is nestled in the mountains with banana plantations surrounding it. Just west of town on a beautiful beach are the ruins of ancient Anamorium with double ramparts, a theatre, Odeon, bath and necropolis. Situated in tiers above the sea, it's perfect for a climb to the top which overlooks one of the cleanest and most pristine seaside in Turkey.
From Tarsus to Antakya / In the Steps of St. Paul
East of Mersin, on the edge of the fertile Çukurova Plain, is Tarsus, the birthplace of St. Paul. Of ancient origin, the city was invaded and destroyed on several occasions and only a few monuments of particular interest remain: the Cleopatra Gate, through which Mark Antony and Cleopatra passed when they came to Tarsus to meet, an ancient church, and the Ottoman Ulu Cami. You can get the feel of bygone days if you walk though narrow streets past old houses to find St. Paul's well. Little streams, waterfalls and shady trees at the Tarsus Falls on the outskirts of town create an idyllic afternoon. The Karaburçak Park is perfumed by its groves of eucalyptus trees.
Set in the heart of the Çukurova (Cilician) Plain, Turkey's fourth largest city, Adana is at the centre of the rich agricultural region and a thriving textile industry. The Tasköprü (Stone Bridge) built by Hadrian and repaired by Justinian, spans the River Seyhan which bisects the town; only 14 of the bridge's original 21 arches still stand. Of interest in the city are the 16th century Ulu Mosque, the Eski Mosque, the Hasan Ağa Mosque, the 19th century clock tower and the old covered bazaar. The city's three museums, the Archaeological Museum, which displays locally excavated Hittite and Roman remains, the charming Ethnography Museum, and the Atatürk Culture Museum should be included in a tour of the city.
After a day of sightseeing you can sample Adana kebab, a sensational spicy tube of ground meat. Local beverages include salgam, a drink made from dark turnips and sıra, a type of grape juice.
North of the city, the Seyhan Dam and Lake have shady walks and quaint tea gardens and restaurants creating a cool place to escape the heat. At sunset, look back toward the city to the peaceful, winding ruby river, lined with twinkling lights.
The nearest beaches with accommodation facilities are at Yumurtalik, where an ancient harbour castle dominates the picturesque fisherman's wharf, and at Karatas. Fishermen enjoy the scene, and the catch, at Çamlik Park.
Off the road from Adana to Iskenderun, near Yakapinar, lies Misis, a city which derived its wealth from its position on the Silk Route. There are several Roman ruins at the site, including a beautiful fourth-century mosaic depicting Noah's Ark and the animals. Further along the road are the impressive ruins of the Yilanlikale castle, atop a rocky peak that dominates the Ceyhan River. South of Yilanlikale, in the Sirkeli region, a somewhat weathered Hittite relief marks Muvattalish's stop here on his way to Egypt. North of Ceyhan lies the village of Dilekkaya, (the ancient Anavarza), where you can view the ruins of a Roman-Byzantine city and an impressive castle. The small museum at the site has two particularly fine mosaics from Roman baths.
Osmaniye, inland from the head of the Guff of Iskenderun, is the turn-off for two more ancient sites. The road to Karatepe takes you to the ancient Roman city of Castabala, where a colonnaded street, theatre, baths and a fortress on the hill evoke a bygone era. At the Karatepe National Park, (the neo-Hittite site), the remains of the summer residence of King Asitawada, tablets bearing Hittite and Phoenician inscriptions and an open-air museum with fine bas-reliefs reveal the importance and astonishing aesthetic of this pre-historic civilisation.
This region was much fought over during the Crusades and the impressive fortress at Toprakkale was for a time held by the Christian armies. Further back in history, Alexander the Great defeated Darius III and the Persian army in 333 B.C. at the Plain of Issos (Dörtyol). Today this area is covered with large citrus groves which supply Turkey with oranges, tangerines and lemons.
At Yakacik (Payas), off the highway that outlines the coast of the Gulf of Iskenderun, the splendid 16th century Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Complex includes a mosque, bath, bazaar, caravanserai and medrese. Other monuments include the Cinkulesi (Tower of Jinns) and a castle.
Iskenderun, formerly Alexandretta, was founded by Alexander the Great after his victory over the Persians on the Plain of Issos. Today it is a busy commercial center and port with a fine harbour. Excellent hotels, restaurants and cafes line the seafront surrounded by parks and palm trees. The culinary speciality of Iskenderun is delicious prawns. Gourmets should also try künefe, a hot dessert of sweetened shredded wheat filled with melted cheese, and humus, an appetiser of pureed chickpeas, garlic and paprika. Good souvenirs include handcarved wooden tables and chairs and other objects of wood.
On the coast south of Iskenderun, the holiday town of Uluçinar (Arsuz) has good beaches, hotels, guest-houses and restaurants.
On the way to Antakya, off the main road, is the mountain resort of Soğukoluk where you can retreat in the summer from the blazing sun. After you cross the Belen Pass, stop at Bagras Castle, held at various times by the Byzantines, Mamluks and Crusaders.
Antakya, the biblical city of Antioch, lies on the Asi River (Orontes) on a fertile plain surrounded by grand mountains. Once the capital of the Seleucid kings, it was notorious for its wealth and luxury. In Roman times, the city continued to thrive with commerce and culture. It featured prominently in early Christianity and St. Barnabas, St. Paul and St. Peter all visited the city.
The Antakya Museum houses one of the richest collections of Roman mosaics in the world, (Open weekdays except Monday). These fantastic mosaics in stone were uncovered mostly at excavations in Antakya and nearby Daphne. Outside the town, the Grotto of St. Peter is the cave church from which the apostle preached for the first time and where he established the Christian community. In 1983 the church was declared a holy site by the Vatican. Other places of interest include a bustling bazaar and the Mosque of Habib Neccar.
South of the grotto, the Iron Gate was one of the actual entrances of biblical Antioch. Strolling through the old part of town, you cannot help recalling that St. Paul, St. Peter, St. Barnabas, and other saints walked these streets, for little has changed since that time. The Castle of Antioch, set high above the city, offers a magnificent view over the city and the plain.
South of Antakya is Harbiye, the ancient Daphne, where, according to mythology, Apollo tried to make the wood nymph, Daphne, his lover. To escape him, she changed into a laurel tree. The city was a luxurious suburb in Roman times. Covered with orchards, gardens, laurel trees, and waterfalls, this is an excellent place for a good meal. In October, the delicious Harbiye dates are in season. Wonderful laurel-scented soap can be purchased here.
Samandag, 25 km from Antakya, is a resort town with a pristine beach. Seleucia Peria (Çevlik), north of town, was founded around 300 B.C. and by the time St. Paul and St. Barnabas made their first missionary journey here it was a busy port. The most interesting monument to see is the Tunnel of Titus, built to divert rain water. Even by today's standards it is a tremendous engineering achievement. You should drive to Kapısuyu village for the spectacular panorama from the Zeus Temple of the ancient harbour, sandy beach and fertile plain.
Two roads lead from Antakya to Syria: the one to the east and Aleppo passes through the frontier town of Reyhanli; the one to the south goes through Yayladag towards Lazkiye, Tripoli and Beirut.
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 Comments for erkankiraz about Icel | | | | |
MalenaN Sun Apr 4, 2004 05:49 UTC
Very useful information! | bjbonkers Mon Oct 22, 2001 21:57 UTC
Great page | Nobbe Sun Mar 11, 2001 01:40 UTC
Tons of useful information!!!! | Slydevil Sat Mar 3, 2001 00:38 UTC
great info, Erkan!! |
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