"Marstein Fyr" Store Marstein by daarth

Store Marstein Travel Guide: 0 reviews and 4 photos

Just a lighthouse, but not just any lighthouse

The lighthouse is situated on a very small island and marks the south entrance from the sea into Bergen.
It lies about 20 nautical miles from the centre and for me it is about 14 nautical miles to sail each way if I feel the urge to taste the open sea.

The lighthouse used to be manned, but was automated in 2002. A pity in my opinion, as sailors felt an extra security with these guys on a lookout as you sailed in from the North Sea

The sea can be tough out past the lighthouse, and if you’ve been out in a gale, it’s always nice to meet the calmer sea as you sail in behind the island.

A little ways out from the island, there is a nasty underwater reef that has cost many a sailor his life....
There is a certain beauty watching the ocean "boil" around it.

"Nothing is so boundless as the sea, nothing so patient. On its broad back it bears, like a good-natured elephant, the tiny mannikins which tread the earth; and in its vast cool depths it has place for all mortal woes. It is not true that the sea is faithless, for it has never promised anything; without claim, without obligation, free, pure, and genuine beats the mighty heart, the last sound one in an ailing world. And while the mannikins strain their eyes over it, the sea sings its old song. Many understand it scarce at all, but never two understand it in the same manner, for the sea has a distinct word for each one that sets himself face to face with it.

It smiles with green shining ripples to the barelegged urchin who catches crabs; it breaks in blue billows against the ship, and sends the fresh salt spray far in over the deck. Heavy leaden seas come rolling in on the beach, and while the weary eye follows the long hoary breakers, the stripes of foam wash up in sparkling curves over the even sand; and in the hollow sound, when the billows roll over for the last time, there is something of a hidden understanding - each thinks on his own life, and bows his head towards the ocean as if it were a friend who knows it all and keeps it fast.

But what the sea is for those who live along its strand none can ever know, for they say nothing. They live all their life with face turned to the ocean; the sea is their companion, their adviser, their friend and their enemy, their inheritance and their churchyard. The relation therefore remains a silent one, and the look which gazes over the sea changes with its varying aspect, now comforting, now half fearful and defiant. But take one of these shore-dwellers, and move him far landward among the mountains, into the loveliest valley you can find; give him the best food, and the softest bed. He will not touch your food, or sleep in your bed, but without turning his head he will clamber from hill to hill, until far off his eye catches something blue he knows, and with swelling heart he gazes towards the little azure streak that shines far away, until it grows into a blue glittering horizon; but he says nothing.

People in the town often said to Richard Garman, "How can you endure that lonely life out there in your lighthouse?" The old gentleman always answered, "Well, you see, one never feels lonely by the sea when once one has made its acquaintance; and besides, I have my little Madeleine.""

From Garman & Worse by Alexander Kielland

Alexander L. Kielland:
Innledningen til romanen Garman & Worse

Intet er så rommelig som havet, intet så tålmodig. På sin brede rygg bærer det lik en godslig elefant de små puslinger, som bebor jorden; i sit store, kjølige dyp eier det plass for all verdens jammer. Det er ikke sandt, at havet er troløst, for det har aldri lovet noe: uten krav, uden forpligtelse, frit, rent og uforfalsket banker det store hjerte - det sidste sunde i den syke verden.

Og mens puslingene stirrer utover, synger havet sine gamle sanger. Mange forstår det slett ikke, men aldri forstår to det på samme måte. For havet har et særskilt ord til hver især, som stiller seg ansigt til ansigt med det.

Det smiler med blanke, grønne småbølger til de barbente unger, som fanger krabber; det bryder i blå dønninger mot skipet og sender den friske, salte skumsprøyt langt inn over dekket; tunge, grå sjøer kommer veltende mot stranden, og mens trette øyne følger de lange, hvitgrå brenninger, skyller skumstripene i blanke buer henover den glatte sand. Og i den dumpe lyd, når bølgen falder sammen for sidste gang, er der noe av en hemmelig forståelse; hver tenker på sitt og nikker utover - som var havet en venn, som vet det hele og gjemmer det trofast.

Pros and Cons
  • Pros:It guides you safely in from the ocean
  • Cons:It can be a strugle coming in during a storm
  • In a nutshell:Always a welcome sight
  • Intro Updated Sep 12, 2008
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Comments (4)

  • aussirose's Profile Photo
    Sep 19, 2010 at 4:10 PM

    Wow!.... check that sea out! I love boating....but I think I would be sick here David! :o) Thanks for the bd wishes matey. xx

  • KristaB's Profile Photo
    Dec 5, 2004 at 3:11 PM

    Thank you, Captain! From your page I can see how all of us seagoing people appreciate lighthouses. The quote from Kielland is wonderful.

  • craic's Profile Photo
    Dec 5, 2004 at 6:32 AM

    Oh it is so beautiful it is worth a page. (But I think Fort Denison might be smaller.)

  • unravelau's Profile Photo
    Feb 26, 2004 at 1:23 PM

    Much movement in a moody sea.


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