"Ancient, noble Luk" Lucca by alza

Lucca Travel Guide: 568 reviews and 1,478 photos

Splendid façade of San Frediano, 6th cent. Lombard

A quiet halt in Tuscany

Many years ago, I stopped in Lucques as we call it in French... at the last shimmers of sunset. Piazza Napoleone appeared suddenly as though set in a jewel-case, there were people walking in the square and it looked as though they were part of an old, silent play. Romance sans parole!

My friend and I were tired and hungry and we had a long road ahead of us the next morning. So all we did was find a good restaurant and a place to sleep. I often thought of Lucca since that summer night... It became my favourite halt each summer as I drove to Amalfi and I always hoped to spend a whole week there.

This June, I finally went back to spend 5 days in that very pleasant, unassuming but dignified old city. I felt as though nothing had changed. Lucca seems to be a traditional, resilient sort of place. People there do things well, you quickly realise that the simplest bakery or salumeria is carrying on ancestral traditions. Everyone is obviously happy to see you enjoying yourself and appreciating their quiet city.

By the way, it is thought that the name Lucca comes from the ancient Celtic-Ligurian Luk, meaning bog or marshland. The place was inhabited by Ligurians, then Etruscans, before the Roman times. Only a few ruins remain of the Roman era but the Lombards and Carolingians made Lucca very prosperous and eventually, it won its Free Commune status as early as 1119. Of course Lucca's history is also filled with battles and controversy, and then it was forgotten for almost 3 centuries.

When Napoleon fell, Lucca was made a dukedom by Austria and given to Marie-Louise de Bourbon-Parme. She must have loved the city and preserved it, because there is something of sleeping beauty in its old-fashioned style. It's really quite unique, both in aspect and attitude.

Last visit to Lucca: Dec 2009
Intro Updated Oct 13, 2010
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Reviews (6)

Piazza del Giglio Things to Do (2)

The Teatro del Giglio, a landmark of Lucca, is situated on the square of the same name. Very famous place offering a... more travel advice

Piazza San Michele in Foro Things to Do (2)

There's a good statue on Piazza San Michele that linked me to my Canadian history and I decided to focus my tip on it.... more travel advice

Arriving in Lucca, getting around Transportation (1)

I'm not gifted for Transportation Tips but I had a good experience with driving to and around Lucca, and with parking by... more travel advice

A large & very practical hostel Hotels (1)

I spent 5 nights at Ostello San Frediano, just inside the remparts at Porta Santa Maria. To situate it from the start,... more travel advice

Restaurants (2)
See All Looks like a restaurant in Montmartre!

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Comments (6)

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breughel Mar 27, 2011 at 11:00 AM

Une de mes villes toscanes préférées parce que peu connue (en 1990 - LOL). A la lecture de vos tips restaurants j'ai l'impression que vous êtes gastronome à tendance gourmande!
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HORSCHECK Oct 14, 2010 at 1:21 PM

Fantastic little page about Lucca here. The Ostello San Frediano really seems to be a good find. Your page brings back memories of my days in this gorgeous Italian town.
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richiecdisc Aug 8, 2010 at 11:28 AM

Love the mix, Lou...love the mix. If there be only two tips, let them be restaurant tips I always say.
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Jefie Aug 8, 2010 at 10:48 AM

Wow, what a stunning pic of San Frediano! I hope you enjoyed your stay in Lucca, I only spent one day there but I enjoyed every minute of it, such a beautiful town!
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Greggor58 Aug 5, 2010 at 5:48 PM

I really shouldn't read restaurant tips when I'm hungry.. Sounds as if you found TWO terrific spots to enjoy.I like when I walk in circles looking for something..It adds to the story more times than not.I hope there might be more to read soon?
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Maurizioago Jul 25, 2010 at 9:04 AM

Well, feel free to correct my English mistakes too. I hope you are ok. Ciao!