OK, this was awhile ago... but Europe ain't like the US, it doesn't change quite so rapidly. Anyway, I began a three week walk across Germany that ended in the Fulda Gap. It was organized by a peace group and the 8-20 or so of us that walked the distance were greeted every evening by peace activists in the town where we were to spend the night. We would share stories, intrigues, beer and great fellowship. The upshot of this posting, though, is that there are these terrific bike lanes separated from auto traffic all through the German countryside, which by the way is not all sprawled out with cruddy strip malls like in the US, and quite gorgeous. This is a bicyclist's dream ride. Many of the towns are smallish, and even retain the city wall from the middle ages. I'd particularly recommend Marzburg. Very beautiful ancient town - but all the towns have reasonably priced places to stay and you don't really need to plan ahead, just plan on arriving early enough to look around and find a place, then you have the late afternoon and evening to wonder about. If youre interested let me know, I'd like to do this sometime!
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