Glacier National Park Hotel Tips by richiecdisc Top 5 Page for this destination

Upper Two Medicine Campground: some great advice for a short backpacking trip

Our fourth night in the Glacier's backcountry was at the Upper Two Medicine Campground. This was an area we had contemplated backpacking in but on meeting a hiking ranger at Fifty Mountain, he suggested Upper Two Medicine as one of his favorite areas of the park. After waiting a few days in the Many Glacier Campground, we landed our permits. Upper Two Medicine Campground was our favorite of Glacier's backcountry. We lucked out with a spot right on the shore of Upper Two Medicine Lake, one of only four spots total. It was relatively close to the pit toilet but a fair ways from the food preparation area. For a view like it had, it was worth any extra effort. While cooking, we met a couple guys that had come over the pass we would be doing the next day so got some tips on that and our next campground.

Unique Qualities: It was pretty as the sun went down but from its orientation, I knew if the weather was clear, sunrise would be the pay dirt for pictures. I woke up early quite naturally and was greeted by glowing red rock fringing the lake. It was easily the most scenic campground of our whole Glacier Park stay.

Upper Two Medicine Campground can be reached by a couple different trails. We took the shortest route, climbing a mere 350 feet over a 5.5 mile hike so could start late afternoon. You start at the Upper Two Medicine South Shore Trail Head, close to the car campground at the end of a spur road off Route 49 on the east side of the park.

You must have a backcountry permit which cost $5 per person per night, available at various spots in the park depending on the season or in advance by making an application by mail. We got ours at the Many Glacier Ranger Station.

Comparison: least expensive

Price: less than US$20

Theme: Campground

Flattop Campground: glad to have even inexperienced neighbors

Our third night in the backcountry was at Flattop Campground which formed the shortest three-night circuit we could put together. The walk to Flattop from Fifty Mountain started out pretty nicely but once in the forest leading up to Flattop we saw that it had been badly burned in a fire. The small three unit campground was also in a burned out forest, making for a bit of an eerie setting. The spots were quite spread out and we arrived early so took the one closest to the cooking area for a change. It was still plenty far away. We enjoyed a very relaxed and quiet afternoon, resting in the tent. It looked like we would be on our own that night but were relieved when a young couple showed up later in the afternoon.

The kitchen area was quite nice and close to the bear pole and water source. Pit toilet on-site.

Unique Qualities: The couple were very nice but very unprepared. They had never backpacked before and this being their first trip were clueless as to what to bring and not bring. They had canned food, something far too heavy to carry. No stove so they ate their food cold. They didn't really have enough clothes but again, it was just for the night and they were in their tent right after dinner, just like us. The next morning, we were finishing up breakfast when they came down to eat, complaining how cold it was and how hard the ground was. It turned out they didn't have mats to sleep on. We were quite comfy and not really cold. People underestimate the value of a good mat.

Flattop Campground can be reached via a few trails. We hiked 6.5 miles from Fifty Mountain Campground. The trail picked up over 500 feet and lost close to 1000. The next day we hiked out the same way the young couple had, ending up at the Loop Trail Head. It was just over 6 miles, picked up 650 feet and lost nearly 2700. We got a shuttle bus from there to Logan Pass, where our car had been waiting for four days.

You must have a backcountry permit which cost $5 per person per night, available at various spots in the park depending on the season or in advance by making an application by mail. We got ours at the Many Glacier Ranger Station.

Comparison: least expensive

Price: less than US$20

Theme: Campground

The Swift Current Motor Inn & Cabins: a place to seek refuge close to the campground

The Swift Current Motor Inn & Cabins is the kind of place you wish every national park would have. Sure, in US National Parks, even the most historical, rustically cool, and chic hotels are open to all park visitors to hang out in, even if you cannot afford to stay in them, but this place is one just about anyone might be able to afford. Die-hard campers, we still know there is only so much cold wet weather you can take and in between backcountry trips you need to have some creature comforts so after a few days of crappy weather, we inquired about getting a cabin at the Swift Current after hearing from people we met in their lobby how much it cost. Unfortunately, they were booked except for their most expensive rooms which while not super expensive, were more than we wanted to spend. So, we stayed at the Many Glacier Campground right across the parking lot and spent many hours in their lobby, often bringing in snacks and beer purchased in their attached convenience store. We were not the only ones doing this and you often had to wait for a couch or chair to open up.

Unique Qualities: The Swift Current is a budget option accommodation with a no frills look and feel. The cabins date back to 1933, back when it was called the “Many Glacier Auto Camp!” The front looks quite a bit newer but is nothing fancy, sort of looking a bit like an old general store. It is just a simple place with a great location and view. If it was on a highway in Montana, they would be lucky to get $50 for their best rooms, which are basically motel rooms with two double beds and a private bath. Here they fetch $135. The better deals are their cabins. Two bedroom cabins without private bath are a very reasonable $85, a great deal for families on a budget. They have one bedrooms cabins with bath for $75 and those without are $65. We were looking to get one of the later units. All units have a sink and running water.

The Swift Current has showers/laundry facilities at its rear. This is where you shower if you do not have a private bath and are also open to the public, especially popular with campers across the parking lot and backpackers coming in off long trips. Needless to say, we used these facilities quite a bit. You need to purchase tokens at the convenience store of the Inn. It generally cost us $3 for both of us to grab showers which is very reasonable considering you have little choice aside from going without. The laundry was a lot pricier and we would have likely not used it had it not been such wet conditions. After our Iceberg Lake hike, we had to get our stuff dry, especially our jackets which were soaking wet. It cost us $10 for a load of wash and a couple of loads worth of drying time.

From the parking lot just out front, you will see lots of people looking up onto the surrounding hills at grizzly bears very commonly wandering around. I got some of my nicest photos of these very hills from this lot at sunrise.

Comparison: less expensive than average

Directions: Off of Route 89 on the east side of the park. Enter the park at Many Glaciers entrance station and take that road to its end. The campground and Swift Current sit side by side and just up the road from the Many Glacier Hotel.

Price: US$40-80

Theme: Motel

Lake McDonald Lodge, Cabins & Motor Inn: yet another historic Inn

Not many National Parks can boast two incredible historic hotels but Glacier sure can. In addition to the classic Many Glacier Hotel on its eastern side, the west side of the park has the Lake McDonald Lodge, Cabins & Motor Inn. This is another sprawling, mostly wooden, alpine Swiss-influenced affair also on the Register of National Historic Places as of 1987. While full of amenities and restaurants, it still oozes the charm of another era and its lobby area, while not as big as the one in the Many Glacier Hotel is perhaps even homier if that is possible.

Unique Qualities: Rooms $120 and $170, certainly good value for the location. This was out of our range on a six month trip around the US and was quite far from where we camped. We stopped by on our way out of the park to warm up after coming across a soon-to-be-snow-closed Logan Pass. We grabbed a coffee, soaked up the atmosphere and headed out of Glacier National Park after a very successful and enjoyable trip.

Comparison: more expensive than average

Directions: Lake McDonald Lodge is located on the Going-to-the-Sun Road on the western side of the park.

Price: US$80-120

Theme: Hotel

Oldman Lake Campground: pick a lake, any lake to camp at

Our final night in Glacier's backcountry was at Oldman Lake. Oldman Lake Campground is sometimes closed due to grizzly activity but was luckily open for business when we went for permits. With only four spots and our long hike there, we did not have many choices as to which one we got.

The spots themselves were disappointing compared to the night before at Upper Two Medicine but it was quite scenic when you strolled down to the lake. The food preparation area was about halfway between the lake and the campground with the pit toilet just beyond that. We were pretty tired but enjoyed sitting down at the lake after dinner for a bit before passing out in the tent. It had been a very long day. The next morning, it was another gorgeous sunrise on the lake though nothing compared to morning previous at Upper Two Medicine Lake.

Unique Qualities: Old Man Campground can be reached by a variety of trails. We hiked from Upper Two Medicine Campground via the Dawson Pass, walking a fair bit right on the Continental Divide. It was nearly 10.5 miles, picked up 2900 feet before dropping down 1700 to Oldman Lake. The hike out was much easier at only 6.5 miles, all down hill for a drop of about 1500 feet.

You must have a backcountry permit which cost $5 per person per night, available at various spots in the park depending on the season or in advance by making an application by mail. We got ours at the Many Glacier Ranger Station.

Comparison: least expensive

Price: less than US$20

Theme: Campground

Many Glacier Hotel: old historic charm Many Glacier Hotel Review

The Many Glacier Hotel is a fantastic old historical inn built in 1915. It is a classic national park hotel, made with lots of wood and breathing atmosphere. You could tell me it was haunted with ghostly guests of another era and I would not blink an eye. I would still gladly stay there too. Built much like an alpine Swiss hotel and in a setting even the Alps would envy, the sprawling old inn of 214 rooms offers rooms of all shapes and sizes to fit different budgets. The Value Rooms are a mere $142 and are simple, small and perhaps poorly located. The high suites are $285.

The lakeside Ptarmigan Dining Room is a great combination of rustic Americana and old time upscale camp. The Interlaken Lounge offers a more laid back place to grab a drink or something to eat.

Unique Qualities: Though the hotel is good value, it was out of our range since we were traveling for six months. I will say, it is a place I would like to stay in one day but we did enjoy its facilities a few times. This great old hotel has been on the National Register of Historic Places since 1976 and as part of the national park, is open to the public even if not staying there. The lobby has an immense fire place and lots of seating around it. We had quite a few rainy cold days while camping at nearby Many Glacier Campground so came here a couple times to escape the awful weather. Nothing like sitting in a rocker by the fire, writing postcards or planning the next backcountry adventure. Well, it beats sitting in your cold tent!

Comparison: more expensive than average

Directions: Many Glacier Hotel is off Route 89 on the east side of the park. Enter the park at the Many Glacier entrance station and follow it nearly the its terminus. If you come to the Swift Current Motor Inn you've gone too far.

Price: US$120-180

Theme: Hotel

Fifty Mountain Campground: a tactical spot

Our second night in the backcountry was spent at 50 Mountain Campground, another popular and tactically important spot in Glacier's wilderness network trail system. It is very central and one of the main cogs in connecting various routes in the park. While the hike in was very scenic, the campground itself was in a state of healing, much of the surrounding trees burned by a forest fire. This made it easier to see some of these 50 peaks but the view was obscured and we had much nicer views in Olympic and Mount Rainer National Parks in Washington State. That said, it was a nice place to camp and we enjoyed it, due mostly to the communal food preparation area. Food must be hung from the provided bear pole. You provide your own rope.

The campground was much more spread out with the five available spots a fair distance from each other. We grabbed one up high and pretty far from the “kitchen.” We got to camp a lot earlier than we had the previous night so got to relax and enjoy the spot more. While down at the kitchen area, fellow campers warned us to keep our hiking poles and backpacks in our tent as deer in the campground were known for chewing them to get their salt fix. The backcountry ranger had warned us about the same thing but the knowledge did not help with the dilemma as to what to do with the gear. Since food had been in the backpacks, we were wary about bringing them in the tent but in the end, there was little choice. When one of the guys came back saying a deer had taken his underwear drying on a branch while he laid down in his tent, we rushed up to grab our stuff that we had put out to dry too. None of our stuff had been taken and we tracked the deer to a ravine where he stood with the garment hanging from his mouth, chewing greedily. One man's underwear is another creature's snack I guess.

Unique Qualities: 50 Mountain did have a very nice food prep area and the rather large group there that night enjoyed some camaraderie while eating our meals. Many were Glacier backcountry veterans with many stories to tell but most were impressed and probably envious of all we had done that summer. Not trying to sound negative, we had to say that the backcountry camping in Olympic had been far more scenic than what we had seen thus far in Glacier. We did like the idea of the group kitchen where all campers are required to cook/eat their meals. It is not only safer but makes it more fun. Pit-toilet on-site.

Getting to 50 Mountain Campground involves a long hike no matter which way you come. Its central location means it is deep in the park. We hiked from Granite Park Chalet Campground which was a very long 12 miles with lots of ups and downs, picking up nearly 2000 feet and losing 1700.

You must have a backcountry permit which cost $5 per person per night, available at various spots in the park depending on the season or in advance by making an application by mail. We got ours at the Many Glacier Ranger Station.

Comparison: least expensive

Price: less than US$20

Theme: Campground

Granite Park Campground: backcountry camping near Granit Park Chalet

Glacier's backcountry camps are a mixed lot but be assured anywhere you camp it its vast wilderness, you are not far from incredible scenery and wildlife including grizzly bears. Our first night in the backcountry was spent at Granite Park Campground, one of the park's most coveted and useful in doing long forays into the considerable trail network. Getting a spot here can make or break a long trip and we were very happy with our luck in securing it.

Located close to the historic Granite Park Chalet, the campground is not quite as scenic as you might imagine considering how scenic the Chalet likely is. I say likely as I did not get to see the actual Chalet even though I was camping nearby. We arrived late afternoon and were sad to see a fork in the trail with one side going to the campground and the other to the Chalet. Tired from the long hike and one grueling side-trip with full packs, we opted for going straight to the campground, vowing to head to the lodge after setting up. By the time we did that, it was getting dark and we wanted to eat before that, it being our first night camping amongst the grizzlies.

There were only four sites and none were overly scenic, pretty much grouped together in a line along the entry path. The “kitchen area” was at the end, just before the stream that served as the water supply. All campers must prepare and eat all food in this designated area. Food must be hung from the provided bear pole. You provide your own rope. Pit toilet on-site.

We took a spot as far from the kitchen as possible, hung our food while setting up, and soon returned to the food prep are to eat. We met a guy from Bulgaria and had a good chat while eating. He was traveling very light with just a hammock and cold food. He told us the story of how the campground used to be right behind the Granite Park Chalet back in the day when the park thought it was okay to feed the bears from the Chalet's back porch. This was quite a show for those staying in the lodge and one night even more so for those in the campground, when a few of them were killed. I never checked to see if all this was true but I did feel better about not camping behind the Chalet after that!

Unique Qualities: After dinner, it was dark and we crawled into the tent and passed out. The next morning, it seemed like too much work to walk back to the chalet with the packs. Leaving everything at the campground was not really an option and posed quite a bit of backtracking. Maybe one day we'll be back and just stay in the Chalet. I can tell you one thing, I will not be camping behind it anytime soon!

The Chalet charges $85 for the first person and $73 for each additional person in the same room plus tax. You can bring your sleeping bag (you'll need it at this elevation even in summer!) and food which you can prepare in their rustic mountain kitchen. Alternatively, you can pre-book linens ($16 per person) and meals (surely not cheap looking at other prices!). Elevation 6500 feet.

There are many ways to reach the Granite Park Chalet (and thus campground). They all involve hiking and all trails lead up. The most gentle climb is also the longest, one of the most scenic and the one we chose. We hiked from Logan Pass. It was 7.6 miles (12 km), picked up 830 feet (all at the end I think!) and dropped down over 3000 feet. This is a fairly easy hike but we had not backpacked in a few weeks, started a bit late in the day, and did the side trail to the Grinnell Glacier Overlook with our packs on!

You must have a backcountry permit which cost $5 per person per night, available at various spots in the park depending on the season or in advance by making an application by mail. We got ours at the Many Glacier Ranger Station.

Comparison: least expensive

Price: less than US$20

Theme: Campground

Many Glacier Campground: Many Campgrounds Many Glacier Campground Review

Glacier National Park has many fine campground spread over its considerable area. Organized car campgrounds are mostly clustered on the Going-to-the-Sun Road. With the great size of the park, it makes most sense to move from one area to the next rather than backtrack but if you remain in one spot, at least the road you are backtracking on is amazingly scenic! Campgrounds vary in amenities and also when they are open so please check the park's helpful website to pick the one that best suits your needs. West of Logan Pass has Apgar, Fish Creek, Sprague Creek, Lake McDonald, and Avalanche Creek. I have not stayed on that side of Logan Pass so cannot comment on them.

The east side of the Divide has Rising Sun and St. Mary on the Going-to-the-Sun Road. On that side of the park but in separate sections of the park, there is Many Glacier and Two Medicine. Most campgrounds in the park are first-come, first-served but you can reserve for St. Mary and Fish Creek.

In 1994, I camped at Rising Sun and it was a wonderful spot but on our most recent trip in 2008, we picked Many Glacier for a variety of reasons. Though remote from much of the park, it is close to some of the finest day hikes in the park. More importantly, it was close to a backcountry ranger station, making it easy for me to get up early and walk to get permits while D slept in.

Many Glacier Campground is one of the park's most popular despite being a bit away from the rest of the park due to its scenic beauty. Set in a dense forest, sites are well-spaced with picnic tables and fire grates. We had two three night stands in this campground and enjoyed both spots for different reasons. One spot was deeper in the campground and perhaps more scenic but we had neighbors in an RV next to us that ran their generator when it was allowed. Thankfully, they have cut off hours for such things. It was cold and I can understand why they would want to. They just should have invited us in! Actually, they were very nice but had a few cookouts and steak seemed to always be on the menu. Not only did this make us envious and hungry, we also were a bit worried about the scent. Here we were, laying in our little tent, freezing and smelling a sizzling steak, imagining a bear doing just the same. Well, smelling the steak, not laying in our tent.

Unique Qualities: The campground has kind of rustic restrooms but certainly serviceable with flush toilets though the lack of hot running water was missed during our fairly chilly stay in September of 2008. Luckily, the campground is fairly close to the Many Glacier Hotel and very close to the Swift Current Motor Lodge. In fact, for our second stint at the campground, we opted for a spot close to the latter. It was not quite as scenic but was on very high ground. It was raining a fair amount so this was important and helped keep our tent drier. It was also a very big spot with only tenters around us. Perhaps most importantly, it was very close to the Swift Current. We spent a good amount of our downtime hanging out in their lobby and their restrooms were cozy, warm and had hot running water!

This is grizzly territory and proper food storage is required. Rangers make the rounds to make sure you are not leaving any food out when not in use. They have food storage lockers for those camping without a hard-sided vehicle but unlike Yosemite, you do not have to use them if you do have a hard-sided one. This is a lot easier logistically when you are moving around.

It was $20 per night to camp in the summer of 2008 and pretty good value.

Comparison: least expensive

Directions: Many Glacier Campground is located off Route 89 on the east side of the park. This about 40 miles and well over an hour's drive from Logan Pass, the center of the park.

Price: less than US$20

Theme: Campground