The Riggs Glacier. and other Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, AK Things to Do Tips

After two days of paddling in the misty fog, we finally viewed our first tidewater glacier. It seemed so tame at the time but three days later we would row past it on the other side through a maze of icebergs with seals resting upon them.

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Directions: Deep in the Muir Inlet, right before the turn towards the Muir Glacier.

While not the highlight of the trip, this was our turnaround point and we knew we were halfway done our adventure.

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For me this was the highlight of the trip. It was supposed to be tricky to get to this tidewater masterpiece as the inlet was narrow and at low tide not navigable. The idea was to get there as the tide was on its way up, thus taking advantage of the rush of water going into the inlet. You would also maximize your time to explore this way. You could then leave as the tide was going down and out of the inlet. Sounded easy enough to me but Ina wanted no part of it. Of course, as we got close to the entrance, and it was apparent our timing was perfect, I cajoled her into at least taking a peak. Once we got started I had no intention of turning back and paddled gleefully toward the wall of blue. Park rangers had said to keep a safe distance from the glacier as the routinely calving walls of ice could capsize your kayak in one swelling motion. I didn’t want to get that close but I felt we were miles from it when Ina refused to go any farther. I argued we had to go at least to the rocky beach not too much in the distance and she reluctantly relented. Once on shore, she reveled in our accomplishment and smiled from ear to ear. It was an amazing spot and I wanted to camp there badly but she felt we should get out while the tide was going out. I could see three kayaks far in the distance, seemingly right in front of the huge blue wall that dwarfed them in comparison. I wanted to be there but it did seem closer than the quarter mile suggested as the safe limit of approach. Still, I knew we were not anywhere near that close and wanted to paddle further for a better view of the obvious show of thunder as the ice walls fell dramatically to the sea. Ina would have no part in it, so happy enough; we made our way out of the inlet that I never even imagined we would go into. Ironically, three days later, we would meet up with the three guys that were in the kayaks that seemed so close to the glacier. They explained that they were in fact the prescribed quarter mile from the calving wonder and that it was the most amazing thing they had ever seen, their tiny vessels swaying in the rocky water. I tried not to say I told you so, not sure if I managed it. You’d have to ask Ina.

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The night before we had perhaps our nicest camp with steady winds fending off any insects and a wide ample beach to cook on and not really worry about bears sneaking up on you. There was even that rangy moose that I never got a photo of, but it somehow lacked the sheer beauty to make it perfect. When we got to the Adams Inlet, it appeared we had finally found our Shangri-la. It was a captivating setting that had us wondering why we hadn’t chosen it as our whole trip. There was a loop here that was evidently full of wildlife. No glaciers but a pack of wolves were said to inhabit the area. Our paradise became hellish as swarms of mosquitoes relished in the breezeless cove. The mirror like water had its downfall after all. We got into the tent with the fly off and enjoyed the views from the safe screened enclosure. Soon we did in fact hear the wolves howling in the distance. Perhaps things can never be perfect, but sometimes they are close enough.

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The view from Caroline Point at sunset.
This is where we had been dropped off and now were waiting the night to be picked up. It was fun to finally see some other people, including the three kayakers that had made it up close to the McBride Glacier.

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Early morning view from the tent at Caroline Point.
We had a short night with the beautiful midnight sunset and talking with fellow kayakers. Still the sleep was deep and it was as if in a dream when I heard what sounded like splashing water. Was this the tide we had somehow forgotten about come to sweep our tent into the sea on our very last night. No, it was too rhythmic and prodding. I wearily unzipped the tent and in sheer disbelief, there was a humpback whale breaching just off shore. I hastily put the zoom on my camera and snapped a photo right from the tent without ever getting out of my sleeping bag. Then we sat watching it glide effortlessly through the water, smiling in our good fortune. We'd camped on the beach while the three kayakers that had braved McBride were in the forest. It was great telling them of our whale in the night. It's funny how things seem to even out in their own way.

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Getting picked up by the cruise ship.
Like returning war heroes, cruise ship passengers view you with a mixture of awe and confused distain. First of all you stink from not bathing in over a week, you look like a homeless person. In many ways, you are. You enjoy complimentary hot chocolate. The best part is you don't have to make it and you never look over your shoulder for a bear. Your home safe so you get to enjoy the views and tell the captive audience just how great it all was.

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We had perhaps the best weather of our trip for the cruise. The captain commented that a day like this comes maybe 20 times a year and that we should consider ourselves very lucky. Of course, Ina and I already felt that way, but the views from the ship were the icing on the cake and we enjoyed every bite.

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Other Contact: This is a map of drop off points

The cruise to our drop off was too filled with nervous anticipation to be truly enjoyed.
In fact the only thing I bothered to go onboard for was this colony of sealions.

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