Ulm Favorite Tips by richiecdisc Top 5 Page for this destination

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The stunning Ülmster - Ulm

The stunning Ülmster

The Ülmster vs. The Beer

Favorite thing: Okay, even a confirmed beer-hunter like myself has to admit that the Ulmer Münster is the town's main draw and I admit that I was very pleasantly surprised at just how stunning it was. I kind of wish they'd give it a cooler name though and I don't know how they've blown the opportunity to call it The Ülmster. Now, that just might pack the tourists in and certainly give it an edge on Cologne's Cathedral! That said, I loved both small breweries on either edge of town and I doubt I'd ever return to the city just for The Ülmster but something tells me I will return to the breweries. Of course, I'll drop in the Ülmster too, probably with my tripod this time.

Fondest memory: Books are funny things. They can lead you to places you'd never thought of going. In 1997, I happened upon a beer guide about Bavaria put out by CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale), a British grass roots beer group bent on saving the country's then disappearing real ale. The group was so successful they saved a beer style that might have gone by the wayside otherwise, and thus saved a part of tradition in the process. Most of their guides are about England but of course there is great beer elsewhere and they have done guides to all the beer Meccas. The book on Bavaria was very well written by an English chap living in Munich. I thank him to this day for leading me to Franconia, one of my favorite places for beer-hunting. As great as that guide was though, it could not possibly tackle all 650 breweries in Bavaria, let alone the other 600 scattered around Germany. One such missing place was Ulm, right across the Bavarian border in Baden-Württemberg. As chance would have it, I found another guide by CAMRA years later and it tried to at least name and give some inkling of information about all the brewery's in a country obviously chock full of them. Unfortunately, it lacked the detail and humor of the earlier guide in its attempt to hem in so much information. It did however make an attempt to add this to some of the brewery's mentioned and suddenly Ulm was on my horizon. According to the authors, Ulm's brewery had one of the very best bock beers brewed in Germany and just across the river in the city's Bavarian counterpart of Neu-Ulm, there appeared to be one of the very best old brewpubs in the country as well. Obviously, I just had to go. (continued below in Fondest Memory)

Review Helpfulness: 4.5 out of 5 stars

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  • Updated Jul 14, 2011
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ah, worth the trip in itself - Ulm

ah, worth the trip in itself

beery paradise regrets

Fondest memory: It was certainly a cute old town and the Ulmer Münster was every inch as big as advertised. Size isn't everything but it was quite beautiful as well and its interior was stunning as well. As with most tourists to Ulm, we spent most of our sightseeing time in and around the considerable church. Unlike most tourists, we had not only one brewery to check out in town and soon enough, it was time to trek out to our second. We walked along the river Donau even though it lengthened our efforts and were rewarded with great views of the old town and church. It took longer than we had imagined but we were rewarded with not only a great old brewpub but one with a leafy biergarten to enjoy a well-deserved beer. It was so nice in fact that we nearly didn't go in to enjoy the pubs atmospheric old interior.

Their Märzen beer was quite special as was their Maibock but the Zwickl was not despite the authors of my new guide heralding it as one of Germany's “best pale beers.” I re-checked the pub's interior when I used the restroom and decided their proclamation of it also being one of the country's top old pubs was more accurate. So, we went in for a meal rather than eat in the biergarten as the weather would have normally warranted. Again, the food was excellent and armed with what beers were best from our own earlier trials, there were no disappointments. Well, except the walk back to the train station. It was, after all, only a day trip. My day pack was full of beery bounty. You never know when you'll get back to even a beery paradise but I did regret it when running to catch our departing train. Completely satiated and a bit out of breath, I slumped in my seat for the ride back to Munich.

Review Helpfulness: 4.5 out of 5 stars

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  • Written Jul 14, 2011
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shades of the Ülmster - Ulm

shades of the Ülmster

on making age old retro

Fondest memory: It took about a year of living in Munich before I managed to make it enough of a priority to pull off the easy day trip. My wife was a willing if doubting accomplice. I had to pull out the tallest church in the world to make it more enticing. It's a good thing Ulm is noted for more than just beer. Two hours later and we were waiting for a tram to our first brewery of the day. The architecture, no matter how famous, would have to wait till after lunch. The tram took us through parts of Ulm no one would ever see. Of course, that is, unless they were going to a brewery on the far edge of town. It wasn't particularly scenic but I like seeing where people live in a town too. The pub was certainly convenient, nearly right on the tracks and though promising from the outside, its interior was a bit 70s retro rather than the age-old pub I had envisioned. It was after all, the oldest restaurant in a pretty old town and I could be forgiven for expecting ancient timbered ceilings. At any rate, the beer and at this point just as importantly, the food were both excellent and for me at least, the trip was entirely justified. We took the tram back into town and proceeded to the sights. (completed below in Fondest Memory)

Review Helpfulness: 4.5 out of 5 stars

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  • Written Jul 14, 2011
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richiecdisc

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