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When most people think of the jungle their thoughts run to the Amazon and though a few countries can claim having a portion of the massive river within their boundaries Brazil is most popularly seen as the access point for such visits. Few realize just how big Brazil is and accordingly how far the river is from any of its International airports making visits time consuming and expensive. Tributaries of the Amazon while perhaps not as romantic offer the intrepid traveler a chance to experience the jungle a bit closer to civilization and thus reduce some of its inherent cost and travel time. One such area is that surrounding the Napo River in Ecuador. This small South American country is terrain dense and the relative close proximity of a a few massive volcanoes in such close proximity to a lush jungle is just one of its alluring signatures. That you can fly into capital Quito and be in either the high Andes or floating down a tributary of the Amazon in a few hours time is part of Ecuador's great appeal.Check out my Ecuadorian Jungle page today.

It seems odd that a site so inherently connected with Darwin's fascination with its flora and fauna's independence from the rest of the world's should become so intertwined with a group tourism mentality. The independent traveler is not only not catered to but is all but shunned when inquiries are made on anything outside the common four or seven day cruises. While no pretenses are made about being able to explore the Galapagos entirely on one's own it is more than possible to do quite a bit that way and in so doing, to become an autonomous traveler on the very archipelago that first instilled the idea of such survival to Darwin. If you want to find out how you too can afford a trip to the Galapagos Islands or are not interested in being herded with the rest of the tourists going there, please read my Independently Galapagos.

It’s always fun when a country has rival cities. It makes for great debate concerning their relative merits. Such is the case with Cuenca which while somewhat in capital Quito’s shadow manages to have its proponents of being Ecuador’s most beautiful city. Quito may be grander and certainly looms on a larger scale but Cuenca has an artsy charm impossible to miss even on a cursory visit. Though only the country’s third largest city and remote with regard to transit compared to the capital and Guayaquil, it very much has an international flair and a strong Spanish heritage which pervades the easy going bustle that makes it feel somehow more European than either. Perhaps this obvious self confidant air comes from its Incan past when its closer proximity to Cusco and reported spectacular architecture made it the second city of the near mythic empire. Sadly, little remains of this splendid past what was built upon its ruins will disappoint few who love Spanish colonialism. If you like walking down cobblestone streets, admiring quaint balconies and impressive churches, have a penchant for both local and international cuisine or just want to lounge around in a café, Cuenca should not be missed. It has the rare quality of retaining an old world feel while offering all modern conveniences. You choose which is for you but by all means, Cuenca is a choice you’ll want to make.

Baños suffers from a bit of an identity crisis. On one hand it is everything that tourists both foreign and nationals alike imagine Ecuador to be. Lush green mountains, abundant flowing waterfalls, and volcanic activity right at your door. Detractors will point out a lack of Andean culture and a Disney-like atmosphere pervading. What Baños is however is a gateway town between the Amazon basin and the Andean plateau. It’s no wonder it doesn’t quite fit within any one particular region’s conception. It’s not tropical but it is incredibly green. It lacks the harsh Andean climate but enjoys cool evenings afforded by its mountainous location. It can’t help being at a nearly ideal elevation. It doesn’t pretend to be a center of culture and though there are some fine examples of architecture within the small city limits, its calling card sights are those of its setting. In Baños, it’s nature that rules. But perhaps the best evaluation of the town comes from those that flock there and that number is considerable. Ask an Ecuadorian what he thinks of Baños and invariably you’ll be answered with a smile. They all love the place. Baños is also that rare destination that can satisfy foreigners as well as its nationals. They may have come to Ecuador to see the Galapagos Island and Cotopaxi but you’ll be hard pressed to find one that didn’t enjoy their time in Baños as much as anything on their visit. Sure, Baños is a tourist town but its one that knows how to satisfy its loyal following and who can fault a town for so effortlessly doing that? Sometimes it’s best not to ask why. Just enjoy, everyone else seems to.

Even on the best of trips, there are times when things don't quite work out as planned, especially when in the mountains. Please read about such an episode when we aborted our plans around Chimborazo.

The difference between off the beaten path and those more traveled on is only a matter of well…being traveled on. We’ve all seen it before when one of our little secrets becomes run of the mill on the travel wire. Now, these distinctions are of course subjective and one person’s idea of adventure is another’s common fodder. A case in point is Ecuador’s increasingly popular Quilotoa Loop. The massive crater lake Quilotoa has been a place of gathering amongst the indigenous population for generations and one look at the awe striking caldera explains why.

It has likewise been popular with the general population of Ecuadorians as a tourist destination though for admittedly shorter duration. But it has only been since the early 90s that it has become a target for gringos seeking adventure en route to the stunning lake created from a volcanic eruption some 800 years ago. Undoubtedly, what these early daring travelers found was that while the lake itself was indeed incredible it was the journey there that was the true find. Passing through relatively unchanged villages on foot, horseback, or via the local bus was not only a life enhancing experience, it was fun. One noteworthy trekking guidebook was published and its info later syndicated by the Lonely Planet and a “new” path was created for the intrepid traveler.

A few years later and it’s one of the ‘in” places to travel in Ecuador. Has all this notoriety ruined this rural paradise? So far the answer is no. Will a steady if slow trickle of gringos be its downfall? Not if those passing through remember to respect local customs and the local people, to leave as little of their trace as possible and hence keep off the beaten path just that.

On first glance, Latacunga is a mere transport hub in the Andean plateau of Ecuador south of Quito. Its close proximity to the lumbering volcano Cotopaxi ensures a steady flow of transients. Most visitors to Ecuador that are using ground transportation will have to pass through it at some point and many never see anything aside from the bus terminal. For those that get stuck there it can be a pleasant surprise. Not because it is a beautiful city per se but because it is an authentic one. That it is one with noisy western leanings might disturb some but its mix with old Andean culture is an exciting jumble. No, Latacunga will not charm you perhaps but for those who investigate a reward of experiencing the real Ecuador awaits. Oh, and don’t forget to try the chuchachuras!

Take a taste of Latacunga today!

As Ecuador strives to become one of South America’s top tourist destinations the Galapagos Islands and the Amazon basin come unsurprisingly to the forefront. After all, they are amazing areas and are generally visited on some type of organized tour thus taking the danger out of Ecuador’s dubious reputation for risk. But it is the Andes that are the heart and soul of this emerging nation. No visit to Ecuador is complete without at least a cursory visit to this stunning region. Spectacular volcanoes dot the harsh windswept barren landscape like monumental blips on an otherwise sun scorched plateau while its indigenous inhabitants sway between their Incan past and western intrusion. Compacted into a ridiculously small region the Andes of Ecuador not only are the continent’s most easily explored but their close proximity to the sea, jungle and the nation’s capital makes them nearly impossible to not at least pass through unless your travel is entirely by air. And why do that when below you lies not only one of the planet’s great wonders but also one of South America’s greatest road infrastructures, one surely modernized but still a remnant of what the Incas utilized for nearly a century. Come with us for a backpacking trip around Cotopaxi.

Climbing Ilinizas Norte was the plan but sometimes plans don't work out as well, you plan them especially where mountains are concerned.

The phrase good things come in small packages seems to be particularly fitting with regard to Ecuador. The tiny wonder that straddles the equator has not only a great variety of geographical terrains but also a ridiculous amount of biodiversity. And when such things are crammed into this small of a space it makes for a dramatic landscape where tropical rain forest, enormous active volcanoes, and swaying palmed white beaches pass by like images from a bus window. It’s a magical place where you can still find penguins, vicuñas and a frog the size of your fingernail in the wild and not have to visit the local zoo. Squeeze all this natural wonder in between some beautiful World Heritage colonial cities and sprinkle generously with a wonderful open people, a few colorful cultures and a tasty culinary scene and you have the makings of one of South America’s most extraordinary treats. Is it changing? Sure. Political corruption abounds. Exploitation of natural resources continues to take a daily toll. Globalization is our nemesis. But Ecuador is well endowed and though tough choices are on its horizon, let’s hope its decisions allow it to rise above the commonplace. For Ecuador is anything but common and should hold itself to special consideration.

Ask the average person what city comes to mind when they think of South America and most will reply Buenos Aires or Rio de Janeiro. Some with a bit more savvy may venture forth with the continent’s culinary capital of Lima. Those with a view on world politics might even mention Bogota or Caracas. But few will come up with Quito. It’s not like the city just sprung up from nowhere having been a key stop on the extensive Inca roadway. No, not the Inca trail but the more far-reaching network that ran from southern Colombia down into northern Chile. While Ecuador makes inroads into the tourist scene due primarily to the Galapagos Islands and to a lesser degree an array of stunning volcanoes, its equally impressive capital is viewed by many as a mere gateway city that must be flown into. Of course, these are the same people that spend a few nights partying in the city’s less splendid if more intoxicating New Town rather than experience some true local flavor in the exquisite Old Town. It’s a shame because with even a cursory exploration one will be rewarded with a charming collection of colonial buildings, some pretty parks, an authentic market place, a fantastic assortment of culinary delights, and friendly locals all too willing to help not only you but to shed the city’s dangerous reputation. With a bit more investigation one will be pleased to find one of South America’s most enthralling cities, full of astonishing sights situated in one of its most spectacular settings. More on my Quito page.