"Healing in Mostar" Top 5 Page for this destination Mostar by acemj

Mostar Travel Guide: 636 reviews and 1,701 photos

Getting back on the horse

This trip was about Croatia. Bosnia-Hercegovina was merely a point of reference on a map. When asked about my plans, I sometimes had to say, "Croatia. It's the skinny country that runs along the Adriatic coast across from Italy and next to Bosnia-Hercegovina." They spell it with a "c" locally, so I'll use that instead of the VT spelling. They also refer to it with the abbreviation, "BiH" (the "i" is for the Slavic word for "and").

My Croatian adventures were going great until an unfortunate incident in Split where I was robbed and roughed up a bit by three thugs. The next couple of days were spent hobbling about trying to recover from the experience, both physically and mentally. I replayed the whole indicent in my mind a thousand times imagining all of the things I could have done differently in order to yield a more positive outcome. After beating myself up enough, I decided to get back on my horse and do something unplanned, completely spontaneous and just maybe a little dangerous. After all, any conversation with a local that lasted more than ten minutes, almost always brushed over the war and something that impactful warranted my exploration.

So, I boarded a bus in Dubrovnik and headed for Mostar, the scene of some of the bloodiest battles of the recent war. I was short on cash, carrying only a small amount of the Croatian currency, the Kuna, a problem considering it was Croat fighters who did most of the damage to the historic Muslim Quarter of the city over a decade ago.

I was glad that I had come here to gain a better understanding of this terrible conflict. Though I did not leave my room after night fell on Mostar, I slept soundly knowing that I, like the city itself, was undergoing a healing, and that a few kicks and punches would not be enough to take away my traveler's spirit. I hope that Mostar itself will one day regain all that it once was, a charming town situated in a beautiful valley full of diverse and unique people that I believe are capable of more than mere coexistence.

  • Last visit to Mostar: Feb 2004
  • Intro Updated Feb 29, 2004
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Reviews (28)

Comments (34)

  • antistar's Profile Photo
    Sep 6, 2010 at 3:27 PM

    Mostar was totally safe. I didn't feel any anti-western feelings, and walked around the Muslim and Croat side at all hours. The Kuna isn't accepted (they prefer Euros) but I don't think it's political. But I can understand your sensitivity after Split :).

  • easterntrekker's Profile Photo
    Aug 17, 2008 at 5:39 PM

    We were in Mostar last month . Happily the bridge is now reconcstructed.I was interested in seeing your before pictures!

  • TheWanderingCamel's Profile Photo
    Sep 27, 2007 at 9:51 AM

    Mostar was looking lovely this summer. Interesting to read hear and realize how things are moving on for the town. leyle

  • Amelei's Profile Photo
    Jul 28, 2006 at 6:22 AM

    beautifully written. I too hope that Motsar will on day heal itself from these atrosities and smile again. The country is jsut so beautifully tragic. The people- perfect.

  • craic's Profile Photo
    Jun 2, 2006 at 11:28 AM

    Pleased to report that Mostar has cheered up considerably since you saw it. The joint was jumping last month.

  • JLBG's Profile Photo
    Feb 22, 2006 at 2:12 PM

    Luckily, the situation has improved since your visit. In 2005, we were short of time to visit Mostar but plan to do it in 2006.

  • Pravatti's Profile Photo
    Feb 13, 2006 at 1:56 PM

    Nice tips about my hometown.it's even more beautiful now,with the 'new'old bridge.I'm sorry for the bad things in Split,mostar is even more dangerous....Lejla

  • Karolina01's Profile Photo
    Jan 21, 2006 at 9:52 PM

    Very good page about Mostar. I am sorry for the bad experience in Split.

  • HORSCHECK's Profile Photo
    Jan 19, 2006 at 2:57 PM

    Mark, fabulous page with impressive photos and very interesting stories. Bosnia is still on my "Must-Visit" list and your page makes me really want to go there ...Keep on travelling ... :o)

  • sandysmith's Profile Photo
    Dec 7, 2005 at 3:02 PM

    it was good to see the restored bridge a couple of months ago

acemj

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