"Hanoi -- Fascinating & Historic City" Hanoi by Ewingjr98

Hanoi Travel Guide: 2,674 reviews and 5,717 photos

Hanoi's French heritage is evident - Hanoi

Introduction

After being in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi turned out to be a very different city. It was almost difficult to believe they were in the same country. While much of HCMC was newer, Hanoi seemed to be an odd mix of old Colonial French architecture with modern communist-style buildings. Where HCMC was somewhat dirty, Hanoi seemed to be much cleaner. HCMC really had an entrepreneurial sense about it while Hanoi was more laid back and relaxed. Looking back on the trip, I realize that I have fonder memories of Hanoi as a nicer, more relaxed place.

Day 1

Sunset over West Lake, Hanoi

About noon on 19 September 2003, we arrived at Hanoi International Airport after four days in Ho Chi Minh City. At the tourist information desk, we booked Tin Kim Hotel in the Old Quarter. We let a tout talk us into driving us into town for US$10, but he tried to get us for extra money. We were somewhat forceful and he consented.

As soon as we check into the Tin Kim Hotel, a "student" came to our room offering guided tours, including one to Halong Bay, where we were planning/hoping to go. After some discussion, we make him leave the room so we can discuss. He obviously didn't want to let us think about this and lose his opportunity at a sale. The price sounded reasonable, so we decided to spend our last three days in the north at Halong Bay. That left us a day and a half to explore Hanoi.

We decide to start touring by walking to Hoan Kiem Lake. Here our first stop was at the wonderful Den Ngoc Son Temple. We relaxed here with a Coke under the trees for some time. Upon leaving this temple and crossing the red wooden bridge, we were attacked by children selling fans, postcards, and books. I bought a fan, my friend bought postcards. As we were leaving, one very persistent kid kept following us telling his sob story about trying feed his family, we bought from the other kids, so it was only fair we buy from him, etc. As my friend Vince and I were trying to talk this kid became very, very annoying. After about ten minutes of him following us around the lake, we finally lost it and told the kid to take a hike or risk an ass whipping. That did the trick.

We circled all the way around Hoan Kiem Lake, taking several pictures, of the Tortoise Tower on an island in the middle. We went to St Joseph's Cathedral, then stopped at a supermarket near Bao Khanh Street. This turned out to be the cheapest and some of the best food we had in all of Vietnam. For under a dollar we had several pastries and other snacks along with drinks. We sat along the lake and enjoyed a relaxing lunch.

We then walked to Truc Bach Lake, via the eastern edge of the Citadel. This area of the city is filled with amazing shops of all kinds from Buddha sales, to steel shops. At the lake, we saw the Quan Thanh Temple. We then crossed the road to West Lake and had a beer along the shore as the sun was setting. Just as it got dark, we walked through Ba Dinh Square past the Presidential Palace and between the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and the National Assembly Hall. Finally we swung by the One-Pillar Pagoda and grabbed a taxi back to the hotel.

That evening, we had dinner at a pho (noodle) stand for about US$1 per person. We finished the evening with drinks at a few bia hois, and a cyclo trip to Apocalypse Now.

Day 2 and the Final Afternoon

Clash of cultures: locals watching Vikings-Bears!

The next day (20 September 2003), we awoke and walked to Long Bien Bridge and the nearby train station. On the way, we swung by Quan Chong Gate. We stopped at the train station for some water in the shade. We then hired a motorcycle for a 3-hour tour of Hanoi. Our first stop was the Cot Co Flag Tower and the Army Museum. Since the museum was closed for lunch, we decided to have lunch ourselves at good restaurant on Truc Bach Lake. After lunch we stopped at a monument to AAA gunners who shot down American pilots, including John McCain. Then our drivers took us to the most impressive monument in Hanoi, The B-52 Memorial, where the remains a B-52 still rest in a green pond surrounded by nice houses. The drivers swung us by the One Pillar Pagoda on the way back to the Army Museum. We dismissed our drivers and toured the museum. After the tour we stopped at Lenin Park across the street, then began walking. We stopped for a beer at a bia hoi along Phung Hung Street.

We then walked south Ly Thuong Kiet Street and the Hoa Lo Prison. This area became infamous as the Hanoi Hilton during the Vietnam War. Hoa Lo Prison is a very impressive museum.

That evening, we had dinner at 17a Tong Duy Tan. For about $2 per person we enjoyed chicken, pho, and beer. Later we went to the City View Cafe for drinks.

On 21 September 2003 we set off for Halong Bay. We were somewhat skeptical at first, but this turned out to be a great trip.

23 September, we headed back to Hanoi for one last afternoon. Upon our arrival, we went straight to the City View Cafe for spring rolls and beer. Then we wandered around the area looking for souvenirs. I ended up buying a hand stitched picture and a painting made with egg shells.

We had dinner at 19 Tong Duy Tan, then we went to Relax Bar on Ly Thuong Kiet for a few beers prior to departing for the airport. We hitched a taxi right in front of the Relax Bar. Though we made it to the airport early, we almost missed our flight because we mistook the mob of people at the ticket counter as travelers when they were really just seeing off their relatives! We also had no idea there was a $14.00 airport departure fee until we got through security and to the customs desk. We had to go out of security to the front counters and pay this before we could leave.

Pros and Cons

Pros:Charming French architecture, clean
Cons:Ugly Communist architecture, scams

Last visit to Hanoi: Sep 2003
Intro Updated Sep 18, 2012
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Reviews (40)

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Shop with the locals in the Old Quarter - Hanoi

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The Old Quarter is an amazing array of streets filled with tourists, hotels, cafes, markets, bia hois, and traffic. This... more travel advice

Tran Quoc Pagoda - West Lake Things to Do (20)

Tran Quoc Pagoda is the oldest of Hanoi's pagodas. Originally established around 548AD along the Red River, it was moved... more travel advice

Shopping around Hoan Kiem Lake Shopping (2)

The area around Hoan Kiem Lake in central Hanoi has dozens of shops full of nice souvenirs. In this area, I purchased a... more travel advice

Nightlife (5)
See All General Nightlife in Hanoi
Restaurants (6)
See All Legends Bar

Transportation (6)
See All Airport Departure Fee
Hotels (1)
Tin Kim Hotel

Travelogues (1)

Written Mar 29, 2008

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Comments (5)

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Nemorino Jul 17, 2010 at 8:26 AM

Nice tips. Glad you had some good times in Hanoi and saw lots of sights. When I was there in 1995 I rented a bicycle for three days and had a great time riding all around. The bike was a bit small for me (Vietnamese size) but otherwise fine.
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King_Golo Jan 14, 2007 at 1:46 AM

You really saw a lot of Hanoi in just 2 days! Very good tips, and a lot of them off the beaten path!
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volopolo Oct 14, 2006 at 11:56 AM

lovely page! Nikos
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sailor_p Oct 26, 2005 at 1:11 AM

Great commentary and photographs. The tips are informative. I would definitely want to visit the city view cafe when I am there next month!
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Hosell Jan 22, 2005 at 3:03 PM

Great page and pictures,Hanoi looks like a beautiful city to see!!!