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the Uffizi Gallery in Florence
Favorite thing: Sandro Botticelli (1445-1510) is a Florentine painter that experienced an upheaval mid-career. Early on, he was under the patronage of Lorenzo d’Medici and created such fabulous paintings as Birth of Venus and Primavera. He traveled to Rome and helped paint some of the side paintings in the Sistine Chapel for Pope Sixtus IV.
However, Botticelli, upon his return to Florence, came under the spell of Savonarola, who preached against many “vanities” in Florence. Botticelli is known to have place many of his own paintings into the flames of Savonarola’s “Bonfires of the Vanities”, which was fueled by many peoples’ artworks, jewelry, books, wigs, and anything else that the friar felt was sinful. The reason that Botticelli’s most famous works (Birth of Venus and Primavera*) were not destroyed is because they were the property of Lorenzo d’Medici at that time. After the era of Savonarola, Botticelli’s work changed to religious scenes rather than pagan themes.
I have listed the works by Botticelli that can be found in Florence. If you are short on time, I highly recommend you visit the Uffizi and see the Botticelli works on display. You can also visit the site of Savonarola’s execution, at the site of the “Bonfires of the Vanities” in the Piazza del Signoria.
Uffizi
Madonna della Loggia
Madonna in Glory with Seraphim
Fortitude
Madonna of the Rose garden
Madonna and Child with Six Saints
Discovery of the Body of Holofernes
Return of Judith to Bethulia
Portrait of Man with a Medal of Cosimo the Elder
Adoration of the Magi
Annunciation
Magnificat Madonna
Spring (Primavera)
Pallas and the Centaur
Birth of Venus
Madonna of the Pomegranate
Virgin and Child with Four Angels and Six Saints
Coronation of the Virgin
Cestello Annunciation
St. Augustine in his Cell
Calumny of Apelles
Adoration of the Magi
Accademia
Virgin and Child with Two Angels and St. John the Baptist
Madonna of the Sea
Santa Maria Novella
Birth of Christ
Palazzo Pitti
Portrait of a Young Man
Portrait of a Young Woman
Madonna and Child and Young St. John the Baptist
Ospedale degli Innocenti
Madonna and Child with Angel
Ognissanti
St. Augustine
Tomb of Botticelli
No photos are allowed in the Uffizi so I do not have any pictures of Botticelli's works. However, you can see an informative video about this artist and some photos of his works at the Khan Academy website.
The Uffizi Gallery is a wonderful art gallery – full of works by so many famous artists. Our class visited the museum twice during our week so that we could absorb it all. Be sure to walk around outside the museum and have a look at the statues of the famous Florentines. If you make your way to the river you will get a good view of the Ponte Vecchio and the Vasari Corridor. Let’s head into the Uffizi…
pharmacies in Florencee
Favorite thing: While in Florence, should you find yourself getting sick and needing some medication, stop in at the Farmacias (pharmacies) which can be found all around town. Inside you will find over the counter medications and assistance from the clerks for what you may need to help you feel better. This would also be the place to come if you need contact lens solution or other toiletry needs that are not found in the grocers.
Continuing on our vitural tour of Florence: Our week in Florence was quickly coming to an end. We had seen so much already, but still had a lot to see. So our class set out early on what would be another full day of Renaissance art and architecture in Florence. First stop was Convent of Sant’ Apollonia with its magnificent Last Supper fresco.
pick up information at the TI offices
Favorite thing: Be sure to look into the Tourist Information Centers around town – the busiest one is probably the TI next to the train station, but there are three others in Florence (at the airport, near the Medici Palace, and near the Baptistry). Here is a wealth of information about the city, maps, permanent and temporary exhibitions, and guidance.
It is a good idea to check out the current exhibitions at the TI – there may be exhibits that pull art from other museums and you may miss seeing that piece you had on your list because it is on display somewhere else. (While we were there, we missed seeing Verrocchio’s David at the Bargello, but were able to see it in a temporary exhibit at the Palazzo Pitti.)
Medici Palace:
Via Cavour 1 Rosso – 50129 Firenze
Tel +39 055 290832/ 055 290833
Monday to Saturday 8.30 am- 6.30 pm
Airport:
Via del Termine 1 -
Tel/Fax +39 055 315874
Every day: 8.30 am – 8.30 pm
Train Station:
jPiazza Stazione, 4 – 50123 Firenze
Tel +39 055 212245
Monday to Saturday: 8.30 am-7.00 pm;
Sunday and holidays 8.30 am-2.00 pm
Bapistry:
Info Point Bigallo, piazza San Giovanni – 50129 Firenze
Tel +39 055 288496
Monday to Saturday 9.00 am-7.00 pm;
Sunday and holidays 9 am- 2 pm
Also, the official tourist information website has valuable current information as you plan your trip:
Sometimes when traveling, you find yourself just not feeling very well. This was the case of my classmate, so in the morning, we headed off to find her some medication. Should this happen to you in Florence, look for the green crosses of the Farmacia for help with medicines.
world?s best gelato
Favorite thing: World’s best gelato – can’t count how many times I’ve heard that said! And you can find gelato everywhere in Florence, although it seemed there were more places to buy it when I was there in the summer than my trip in the winter. No real place stands out to me as better than the other (although San Gimignano has the shop that holds the world’s record for best gelato).
I just love the presentation of the gelato – they don’t just plop the gelato containers in the display case, but rather they pile it up and top it with fruits or other things to show you what kind it is.
You really can’t pass these shops by – I think my husband was on a quest to try all of them!
And you can't leave Tuscany without trying the gelato!
If you are following my virtual tour of Florence, we’ll eat our gelato as we make our way around some peaceful streets – away from the tourist crowds and hustle and bustle of the busy city. Let’s take a walk and see how the people of Florence live.
free water refilling station
Favorite thing: What could be better on a hot day in Italy than filling up your water bottle with fresh water for free?!? Florence has thought of this and came up with a wonderful solution.
Next to the Palazzo Vecchio (the town hall next to the Uffizi Gallery), just behind the statue of Neptune – if you are looking straight ahead at the town hall, Neptune is on the left side – is a water bottle refilling station. This small building at first looks like a popular food vendor, especially in the summer months when there is a line. But in actuality, it is a place to refill your water bottle for free. Simply step up with your container, push once for a glass and twice for a bottle, and fill ‘er up! That easy.
To make it easy to find, one of my photos has a large arrow pointing to where it is located behind Neptune.
Now if Florence could just solve the problem of bathrooms so that you have no problem with the effects of the water. :-)
All this water could bring on a different problem - if you are drinking a lot of water, you may find you have to find the bathrooms in Florence. .
Tribute in the Brancacci Chapel
Favorite thing: Masaccio is high on my list of favorite Renaissance artists. His short life (he died at the age of 26) produced some influential works and he was the first to use a vanishing point (seen in the Tribute Money in the Brancacci Chapel. His use of linear perspective, new in his day, as well as his use of architecture within the paintings to create a feeling of depth was groundbreaking.
Michelangelo admits to Masaccio being one of his primary influences and the master was known to spend hours in the Brancacci Chapel studying Masaccio’s works.
It is a shame that Masaccio died so young; it makes you wonder where art may be today if he lived a full life and continued his trend of new techniques in art.
In Florence, there are two places that are must-see spots for Masaccio, but these spots are really must-see places for Renaissance art. So if you are interested in Renaissance art, be sure to add these Masaccio works to your Florence bucket list:
Brancacci Chapel in Santa Maria del Carmine
Trinity in Santa Maria Novella
Now that we’ve learned a little bit about Masaccio, let’s head on into the Brancacci Chapel and see his work.
self portrait of Ghiberti on the Baptistry
Favorite thing: Lorenzo Ghiberti (1378-1455) was a master sculpture in Florence. He is best known for two sets of doors on the Florence Baptisty, one set on the north side and the other on the east side, having won a competition for the north doors, beating such artists as Brunelleschi for the commission. The east doors have been called the “Gates of Paradise” after Michelangelo saw them and exclaimed they should be called as such.
Ghiberti was known for being late on making deadlines and tended to take on more work than he could realistically do within the time requested. He was also a perfectionist that would redo pieces (in bronze it meant melting down the first attempt) until he was satisfied. His “Gates of Paradise” doors demonstrate the artist’s ability to adapt to new techniques and show perspective. His self portrait is a small bust on these east doors.
Ghiberti died in Florence at the age of 77 and is buried in the Church of Santa Croce.
I have listed Ghiberti’s works in Florence. If you are short on time, I highly recommend that you see the doors on the Baptistry. The east doors are the doors facing the Cathedral; the north doors would be to the right of the east doors.
Bargello
Sacrifice of Isaac
Bapistry
Life of Christ – North doors
Scenes from Old Testament – East doors
Self portrait – part of the East doors
Orsanmichele
St. John the Baptist
St. Matthew
St. Stephen
Ospedale di Santa Maria Nuova
Door of a Ciborium
Basilica of Santa Croce
Tomb of Ghiberti
Ghiberti spent a most of his life working on two of the three sets of doors on the Florence Baptistry. Let’s go have a look at the doors on this famous Florentine landmark.
Florence Cathedral dome by Brunelleschi
Favorite thing: Filippo Brunelleschi (1377-1446) was a genius when it came to architecture and engineering. The triumph of his career can be seen from all over Florence and the surrounding areas: the dome of the Cathedral. Not only did he design the dome, but he designed the machinery that would be used to create this massive dome. Earlier in his career, he studied and became a master goldsmith, part of the silk merchants guild. Brunelleschi traveled to Rome with Donatello and studied the Pantheon, which is where his ideas for the Florence Cathedral’s dome evolved.
He is also known for competing against Ghiberti for the commission to create the doors to the Florence Baptistry – he lost the competition but his entry of the Sacrifice of Isaac is one of only two remaining entries and is on display next to the winning entry by Ghiberti in the Bargello.
Brunelleschi was very protective of his ideas and typically would not share them with others. The story is told by biographer Vasari of how Brunelleschi, when asked for his plans for the dome, told the leaders planning the construction to stand an egg upright on one end. When they couldn’t do this, Brunelleschi crushed one end of the egg and it stood upright. After the others exclaimed that anyone could do that, Brunelleschi replied that anyone would be able to build the dome if he shared his plans.
Below is a list of the works by Brunelleschi in Florence. If you have just a short time, then I recommend you spend it at the Cathedral – visit the interior and climb to the top of the dome. As you walk the steps leading to the top, you can see the construction of this engineering marvel.
Bargello
Sacrifice of Isaac
Santa Maria Novella
Crucifix
Architecture
Dome and lantern of the Florence Cathedral
architectural models on display at the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (Cathedral Museum)
Ospedale degli Innocenti
Basilica di San Lorenzo
Palazzo di Parte Guelfa
Old Sacristy of San Lorenzo Church
Santo Spirito
Pazzi Chapel in Santa Croce cloister
Rotunda of Santa Maria degli Angeli
Tomb is located in the Florence Cathedral.
There are a couple other famous artists I want to introduce you to, but let’s take a break and look at Brunelleschi’s dome. You can’t miss it – it is in the middle of the city, sitting atop the Florence Cathedral.
bronze David by Donatello
Favorite thing: Donatello (1386-1466) is well represented in Florence, having been born, raised, and died in the city. He learned to work with metals and intricate details while an apprentice to a goldsmith. At an early age, he was taken under the patronage of Cosimo d’Medici, and was buried beside his patron and friend in San Lorenzo.
Donatello was contemporary with such Florentine masters as Brunelleschi and Ghiberti. In fact, Donatello accompanied Brunelleschi to Rome for several years studying the art and architecture in the city; this is when Brunelleschi studied the Pantheon and devised his plan for the Florence dome.
Donatello’s works are mostly sculptures, both bronze and marble, and some bas-reliefs that can be seen in Siena and pulpits in Florence’s San Lorenzo Church. He was quite prolific in his works, keeping busy for his entire life.
I have listed the works of Donatello that can be seen in Florence. As you can see, the list is extensive, but I have grouped the works by location. If you have only a short time to see Florence, I recommend you visit the Bargello, the Cathedral Museum, and Orsanmichele for the best of Donatello.
Museo Nazionale del Bargello
God of the Sea
Cupid/Atys
David with head of Goliath (marble)
David with head of Goliath (bronze)
St. George (with lower relief)
Marzocco
Bust of Niccolo da Uzzano
Crucifixion
Cosimo d’Medici
Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (Cathedral Museum)
Cantoria
Prophet Habakkuk
Prophet Jeremiah
Mary Magdalene
St. John the Evangelist
Bearded Prophet
Prophet with Scroll
Sacrifice of Isaac
Orsanmichele
St. Mark
St. Peter
Palazzo Vecchio
Judith and Holofernes
Florence Baptistry
Funeral monument to Anti-Pope John XXIII
Duomo
Prophets (Porta della Mandorla)
Coronation of the Virgin (stained glass)
Museo dell’Opera di Santa Croce
St. Louis of Toulouse
Basilica of Santa Croce
Crucifix
Virgin and Child
Annunciation
Museo Bardini
Virgin and Child
Basilica of San Lorenzo
Resurrection Pulpit
Passion Pulpit
Door of the Martyrs - Old Sacristy
Door of the Apostles – Old Sacristy
Various stucco tondos in Old Sacristy
Tomb of Donatello
Palazzo Martelli
Coat of Arms of Casa Martelli
Donatello was a good friend of the artist and engineer that put Florence in the forefront of architecture when he designed the dome to the cathedral - Brunelleschi.
statue of Michelangelo outside the Uffizi
Favorite thing: The master artist Michelangelo Buonarroti was from Florence. He lived and worked here until called to Rome by Pope Julius II to paint the Sistine Chapel. It is to Florence that Michelangelo would travel to when escaping the demands of Rome. He is buried in Florence. Michelangelo considered himself a sculptor and not a painter so it is ironic that he is most famous for this painted ceiling and the subject of books and movies.
The artist was not only a sculptor and and painter, but he was an architect as well and worked on some of the best known buildings in Rome and Florence. In his spare time he also was a poet and a writer and left a large legacy of poems and letters so that we can learn about the troubled life of this artist. In Florence, you can see many of his famous works, including the most famous of all – David.
The works of Michelangelo are all around Florence so I have compiled a list of them for Michelangelo lovers to easily track them down. Obviously, images of Michelangelo’s David can be seen in every souvenir shop in Florence. If you only have a short time in Florence, I recommend you visit the Accademia and the Medici Chapel in San Lorenzo for the best of Michelangelo in the city.
Sculptures
Casa Buonarroti
Madonna of the Stairs
Battle of the Centaurs
Santo Spirito
Crucifix
Museo Nazionale del Bargello
Bacchus
Madonna and Child (Tondo Pitti)
Apollo (David)
Brutus
Galleria dell’Accademia
David
St. Matthew
Young Slave
Atlas Slave
Bearded Slave
Awakening Slave
Palestrina Pietà
Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (Cathedral Museum)
Florentine Pietà
Palazzo Vecchio
Genius of Victory
Medici Chapel – Basilica of San Lorenzo
Night and Day - Tomb of Giuliano d’Medici
Evening and Morning - Tomb of Lorenzo d’Medici
Virgin and Child
Architecture
Medici Chapel (New Sacristy) – Basilica of San Lorenzo
Laurentian Library
Model for new façade of the Basilica of San Lorenzo (unexecuted)
Tomb of Michelangelo
Basilica of Santa Croce
While we will visit Michelangelo’s David in a later tip, let’s meet another master sculptor in Florence who was the creator of two Davids, Donatello.
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