I travelled for three weeks to and in Cuba 'independently' in june this year (2001) and had a really brilliant time.
An eye-opener in many ways, it especially fine-tuned my opinion on the political/economical situation of many Cubans.. I am not want or going to start a political discussion here so that's all i am going to say bout that aspect.
Cuba itself is beautiful and the Cubans very very friendly and hospitable. I stayed in casas particulares most of the time and found them all very nice, clean, friendly owners, so i would recommend that wholeheartedly. Went diving and some fishing at jardines de la reina and found myzelf uncontrollably and infinitely happy on my live-aboard boat: the explorador. Life doesnt get better than that. (neither does the diving i'm afraid ;-) ).
My route: havana (one of the most best cities i ever was (i normally am not fond of cities) )- vinales - trinidad -ciego - jardines de la reina - ciego - camaguey - havana.