If I was to pick a single image that encapsulated downtown Ljubljana it would have to be the never ending dance involving pedestrians, motorised vehicles and bicycles - seemingly locked into an unwinnable struggle for dominance in their efforts to advance. Throw a few roller bladers by the thousand into the equation and you'll see how you could be forgiven for assuming you had become the unwitting participant in some macabre circus act involving hurtling objects, split second timing and where one's demise is avoided by distances measured in milimetres. In fact, by the time I left the banks of the Ljubljanica river, the term "throw in a few thousand roller bladers" had a certain sadistic appeal to it!
The epicentre of this "dance macabre" is Presernov Trg (Preseren Square) and the Tromostovje (Three Bridges) that connect the medieval heart of the old town and its northern expanses. Two of the three bridges are pedestrian concourses added to the original by the architect Joze Plecnik (more of him later), though be warned, the term "pedestrian" in Ljubljana includes bicycles, skateboards, scooters, roller bladers and even the occasional police car!
But please don't assume from this introduction that I am inferring any danger to your person may befall you - this part of the city is as laid back as you can get, a great spot to relax with a cup of "bela kava" and watch the world go by. As the local author has written - "The streets are full of perfectly good stuff and some of us have actually found out what to do with it ..."
PS - Despite evidence to the contrary provided by my charming host herself, I am assured by my good friend Oja that squashing small dogs underfoot when meeting guests in Presernov Trg is not a Ljubljanan, or indeed, a Slovenian custom and should not be attempted by non locals! :o)
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