"MARAGOGI BEACHES AND THE CORAL COAST" Maragogi by Brazilbum

For the past thirty years, my family and I have been coming to the beaches of Maragogi and its surrounding area. I never tire of this paradise. It is part of a cluster of eight closely knit cities along the northern coast of the state of Alagaos, Brazil called the Coral Coast. Maragogi's beaches are on a wide lagoon formed by a continuous tropical reef that stretches over 130 kilometers along Brazil’s Northeast Coast. The region’s never ending reefs are perfect for scuba diving or snorkeling both at the reef and just beyond. I just like to wander along the reef or its pristine beaches looking for sea life, admiring the coral formations, or just marveling at the constantly changing color of the waters. Even though its beaches and the tropical reef are its principle attractions, there are side trips to visit the surrounding centuries old sugar cane growing area that highlights the history of the region. In the city and throughout the surrounding area there are culinary and cultural delights as well as many unique excursions that show Maragogi's potential for ecological tourism.

The municipality is the second most visited city after Maceio, the state capitol of Alagoas. Its major attraction is the "Galés", a group of extraordinary tropical pools formed at low tide about 6 kilometers from the city’s beach. They are served by 15 large registered catamarans leaving from various points in the municipal area. Individual tours are also available. Here tourists are able to appreciate different marine species and swim surrounded by colorful fish. Moreover, along the 22 kilometers of pristine beaches bordering Maragogi’s wide, transparent tropical lagoon, there are many other natural wonders and scenes of great beauty to discover. There is something for everyone and every pocketbook. As a tourist destination, Maragogi is worth much more than a day trip from Recife or Maceio to the “Galés”. In fact, Maragogi has been chosen as one of the 65 principle tourist destinations in Brazil and will be receiving additional support from the Brazilian Government. In a recent survey done by the prestigious Gelulio Vargas Foundation, Maragogi was found to be above average in its natural attractions of all these principle Brazilian tourist destinations.

The region has a great variety of accommodations, from international resorts to comfortable guest houses. The region’s inns - “pousadas”, range from simple bed and breakfasts to some exceptional and exclusive private getaways for the rich and famous. Google "maragogi" and you will find websites that present the many options. Also, consider exploring the beach communities towards the south of Japaratinga and taking the sandy rural road to the ferryboat crossing the Manguaba River into the picturesque small town of Porto das Pedras and south toward São Miguel dos Milagres along a well marked asphalt road that parallels kilometers and kilometers of fabulous, untouched seascape.

The 334 square kilometers of Maragogi’s municipality are filled with history, both of the battles between Dutch and Portuguese colonizers as well as the growth of the sugar cane and coconut plantations that formed the first wealth of the region. Today, it is tourism that provides the most important economic impact in the region. But, its potential remains unexplored. Even so, the busy waterfront in the City of Maragogi has a variety of restaurants, stores and stalls selling local arts and crafts. Although the areas resorts specialize in a more active nightlife, many of the smaller inns (pousadas) strive to meet the personal needs of their guests with genuinely friendly service.

Maragogi's hardpacked dazzingly sandy beaches

Traveling to Maragogi involves an international flight with or without domestic connections to Recife’s international airport that is about 135 kilometers from Maragogi, less than a two hour drive or three hour local bus ride. Maceio, Alagoas is another gateway airport. I usually arrange for a car and driver to pick us up. But, I use other means of transportation when I am settled in for our stay. There are local rent a car and taxi services as well as the the "combis", vans that run up and down the paved road that links the towns and villages along the Coral Coast. Combies are a great way to see some of the outlying beaches like Antunes in the picture.

There is bus services from both Recife and Maceio on the Real Alagoas company. Be sure to specific the route along the coast - "litoral". Their regular bus from Recife goes right by the international airport. But, an express bus from Recife that takes you none stop to Maragogi needs to be picked up at the Recife bus terminal. Check with the company for schedule information (5581) 3452-1511. There is another company running several mini-buses a day from the Maceio Bus Terminal called Atlantica.

So, while it may seem a long way to travel, it is not so out of the way and of course, it is more than worth the effort. This is a place to spend a week or the rest of your life! In fact, Maragogi is equidistant from both Maceio and Recife as well as the famous market city of Caruaru in Pernambuco. Each can be seen in a long day's trip.

Fisherman at edge of Maragogi's reef and pools

The beaches on the Coral Coast are varied, each inviting in its own way. A good week can be well spent exploring them and visiting the reefs. I love finding local fisherman to take us out to the reef on their sailing rafts called Jangadas. Since the lagoon is calm and safe, the fragile boats are a great experience themselves. Fishing in the lagoon is very limited, but there are larger fish to be had beyond the reef for those that are experienced divers and sport fisherman. But, there are few boats available for tourists. Check with your hotel or inn.

Two times a month, at the low tides of the full and new moons, you can walk out and up onto the reefs from many of the beaches. You´ll need to protect your feet with tennis or beach shoes with good rubber soles. Check the tide and talk to local fishermen or the hotel so you leave time to walk and know when to start back before the lagoon becomes too deep again. We walk from the southern part of Antunes Beach. It is a bit longer than others, but the tropical pools are spectacular as is the reef itself. Just watch your footing.

The Coral Coast is really undiscovered and its potential unrealized at the moment. Take advantage of this situation since there are many new tourist projects about to become reality in this little known paradise that harbors some of the best beaches in all of Brazil. The tourist season reaches its peak in January and Carnival time, but the climate is superb between October and April. Happy beach combing!

• Pros:Some of Brazil's most spectacular beaches
• Cons:Off the beaten track with little English spoken
• In a nutshell:A pristine paradise of reefs and never ending beaches